David raised the question whether "fun" wines are not sometimes more appealing than "great" wines. Here are some notes on would-be QPR "fun" wines.
The first three were genuine fun.
Côte Roannaise Sine Nomine 2009 – Domaine du Fontenay, Simon Hawkins – Alc.11.5% - (€9 at a luxury food shop), vin naturel, non chaptalisé, non filter made from Gamay grapes. Some say that the Côte Roannaise is the 11th Beaujolais cru. This particular bottle does not reach the level of good crus but it could take an honourable place among simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages. It was an honest, moreishly gluggable and quite simplistic wine with medium body, good purity of red fruit, mineral touches and lively acidity and was holding up well for a simple Gamay in its 3rd year; 15/20 but over-priced where I bought it.
Beaujolais 2011 – Domaine des Lys, Jean-Patrick Bourbon - Alc.12.5% - (€7), made from organically cultivated grapes, was quite similar to the previous but slightly lighter and more minerals and acidity with a supplement of charm in its fruit; 15/20++ QPR.
Chinon Les Granges 2010 – Bernard Baudry – Alc.12.5% - (€9) was all I want from an entry level Chinon; medium bodied, fresh and quaffable with attractive red fruit, hints of elegant forestal greenness and leather, lively acidity and decent length with a touch of firmness on the finish. It was delicious now but I know from experience that this cuvée can acquire an extra dimension of complexity with some age while retaining freshness and fun; 16/20 QPR.
However, the following three didn't really make it.
Cabardès 2010 – Château de Caunettes, N&M de Lorgeril – Alc.13% - (€6), made from CabSauv, Merlot, Syrah and Grenache grapes. This appellation is situated at the watershed between Atlantic and Mediterranean river and climate systems and the varietal make-up reflects that. This particular bottle tasted closer to Bordeaux than to Languedoc with medium/full body, some smooth plum fruit, good acidity and marked tannins on the finish. So there are good components here but a lack of expression and charm at present; 14.5/20 with perhaps some short term improvement potential but never "fun" I think.
Douro branco Altano 2010 – Symington Family Estates – Alc.12% - (c. €6), made from Malvasia Fina, Viosinho, Rabigato and Moscatel Galego. This wine was quite crisp and zesty but rather simplistic and one dimensional. I had hoped for more; 14/20.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011 – Farnese – Alc.13% - (€4). I enjoyed the 2010 and thought it a decent QPR choice as a robust and “fun”, if rustic, partner for a pizza. This 2011 was at present even more rustic and was disfigured by ugly dry caramel notes on its finish which I would normally attribute to over-oaking, if that were scarcely plausible, except by chips, on such a modestly priced wine; 12/20.