Dinner at Locanda Verde last night with Chris Cottrell, Michael Lewis and David Culang started with an informal theme of 1985s (with Michael and I finding an excuse to open bottles of '85 Chave and Verset respectively), and ended up with one of the most remarkable lineups of older/mature wines I've ever enjoyed. Dunno whether it was a flower day or just good karma for some of us, but all the wines showed spectacularly well (especially the old reds) and it was an outstanding lineup with some real gems in a setting where we could sit, relax and really enjoy what the wines had to offer along with some great food and company. Many thanks to the restaurant as well for putting up with us so late, and for some great wine service.
2009 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
Not as aromatically open as other bottles have been, but lovely all the same with bright grapefruit, green apple and pear flavours flecked with mineral accents. Vibrant and light on its feet with plenty of acidity and a sense of refreshment that makes this disappear very quickly.
2009 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Loibner Steinertal
Compelling as ever, though this really needs a lot of air to show its nuances. At first it's all fresh citrus and pear fruit over a mineral base, but with time it really unravels to show more green/herbal dimensions with the mineral character becoming even more vivid. There's a lightness and delicate touch I rarely find in other Austrian Rieslings, great balance and tremendous length - I reckon this will be something really stunning with time.
1961 Château Malescot St. Exupéry
From a remarkably pristine bottle with a high shoulder fill. There's a touch of mustiness for the first few seconds and then a beautiful fragrance develops, combining all sorts of mature truffled, smoky, floral, cedary and other savoury elements into a scent that's hard to move away from. It's in that perfect period of maturity where it tastes almost exactly like it smells, incredibly complex and layered showing surprising weight and a wonderfully polished, refined mouthfeel with the flavours resonating long after each sip. Truly amazing and one of my most memorable wine experiences, thanks Chris.
1985 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
Starts out with a lovely scent of forestal green/herbal elements, pure dark berried fruit and a touch of leathery funk, and the fragrance just builds over a few hours, gaining in intensity and developing more smoky, cedary and other savoury nuances. This is drinking superbly, conveying flavour with remarkable purity and barely any sense of weight, beautifully balanced and polished in the mouth and a compelling wine to sit down with and follow over a few hours.
1985 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
Stunning wine; developed meaty, smoky, earthy and herbal flavours combining with still-lively red fruits into a polished, seamless and incredibly fragrant whole that conveys flavours with a sense of understatement and a remarkable elegance. Quite a contrast with the Verset, coming across much more refined and regal in its flavours and texture and a pleasure to sit with over a few hours.
1985 Noël Verset Cornas
Such a dramatic change from the Chave, so much wilder and sauvage with a powerful scent of cured meaty flavours, brined olives and all sorts of other savoury/umami elements that combine into a remarkable fragrance. It's still remarkably fresh to drink with the red fruit and olive flavours still very lively in the mouth, bright acidity beneath and still a little grainy tannin lingering on the back end. Thrilling, singular wine (as Verset usually is) and I'm glad I have one more bottle.
1985 Huët Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg
A wonderful showing with lots of sweet nectarine, quince and apple fruit tinged by honey and more savoury wooly and minerally elements. There's moderate sweetness here (along the lines of a younger Demi-Sec), great purity and clarity to the flavours and good acidity keeping it very fresh and well balanced. A lovely wine to finish the evening.
Amazing evening - thanks guys.
