NYTimes: Asimov On Godello

Fairly interesting article by EricAsimov in today's NYTimes:
NYTimes:Asimov/Godello

in which he describes it as Spain's up&coming white grape. And, damning w/ faint praise, he labels its "somewhat neutral" character as a plus, comparing it (favorably) to Chardonnay and one person even labeling it as Spain's hope to make great WhiteBurgundy.
Tom

I'm still trying to get a handle on Godello too. Generally, I like the Vina Godeval and Guitan, dislike anything with too obvious oak. The Pazo de Monterrei '10 deemed a "Best Value" by the Times crew seemed thin and charmless to me. In Portugal the grape makes its appearance as Gouviea, but mostly in the Douro or Dao (curiously, not in the Minho, which is closest to where it is grown in Spain); it is almost always blended with other grapes there.

Fairly interesting article by EricAsimov in today's NYTimes:
NYTimes:Asimov/Godello

in which he describes it as Spain's up&coming white grape. And, damning w/ faint praise, he labels its "somewhat neutral" character as a plus, comparing it (favorably) to Chardonnay and one person even labeling it as Spain's hope to make great WhiteBurgundy.
Tom

I think he was using the "neutral" comment as a positive especially if he was comparing it favorably to chardonnay, although it might have been better if he had just left it as "versatile."
For me personally, I have enjoyed the few godellos that I have had and now actually seek them out which would make it only the second Spanish white varietal, (Albarino being the first), that I actually look for. But Spain's answer to white burgundy? Seems like a stretch.

I agree with Asimov that Valdeorras Godello is a good white Burgundy (Côte d'Or) substitute but would remain cautious in claiming that it can reach the heights of a mature (unpoxed!!) grand cru or 1er cru.

In 2010 I had a Valdeorras Godello Pezas de Portela 2004 from Bodegas Valdelsil and it was really excellent acquiring complexity and fully integrating its earlier obtrusive oak while retaining freshness. However 6 years old is a baby age for great white Burg if it can avoid the pox .

Valdelsil is a cooperative, I believe, but I like their whole range. Bodegas Palacios' is also excellent with a proviso about obtrusive oak in the up-market cuvées when young.

I think that the Atlantic climate of NW Spain is particularly favourable for making fine white and doubt whether Godello would shine elsewhere in that country.

I agree with Asimov that Valdeorras Godello is a good white Burgundy (Côte d'Or) substitute but would remain cautious in claiming that it can reach the heights of a mature (unpoxed!!) grand cru or 1er cru.

In 2010 I had a Valdeorras Godello Pezas de Portela 2004 from Bodegas Valdelsil and it was really excellent acquiring complexity and fully integrating its earlier obtrusive oak while retaining freshness. However 6 years old is a baby age for great white Burg if it can avoid the pox .

Valdelsil is a cooperative, I believe, but I like their whole range. Bodegas Palacios' is also excellent with a proviso about obtrusive oak in the up-market cuvées when young.

My first Godello was a Valdeorras from Valdesil, consumed in Spain nearly 3 years ago. At the time, I found a close similarity to Muscadet, but I also find a resemblance between Muscadet and Chablis, so perhaps I'm not that far afield. It is certainly not a very aromatic variety but in the right terroir does possess a nice mineral character. More recently, I've enjoyed the less heralded Godello from Ribeira Sacra, but I have an aversion to oaky Godello.

Mark Lipton

I actually don't mind a well-done oaked Godello, the Palacios As Sortes is a pretty good ringer for Meursault. But I liked unoaked Godello like the Benanza as well.

Godello appears to be a grape that lends itself to various styles, from the nervy, Chablis-like of Terra do Lobo (Quinta do Buble in Monterrei) to the richer, more exotic lees aged styles like Guitan Godello Sobre Lias (= aged on the lees) from Valdeorras, even when there is no new oak. Never as aromatic and tropical as albarino.