WTN: Some Calif/Italian Nebbiolos..(long/boring)

We tasted tonight (5/23/12) Some Nebbiolos:
1. LaSpinetta Campe della Spinetta DOC: Langhe Nebbiolo (Vigneto Starderi; 14%) 2008: Med.color; some earthy/dusty
light floral/lilacs/Nebb light toasty/oak slight spicy rather pretty Nebb nose; tart rather hard/lean/tannic somewhat
toasty/oak light floral/lilacs pretty flavor; med.long hard/tannic/lean/tart/austere some pencilly/oak pretty floral/
lilacs finish; quite a pretty classic/forward Nebb nose but pretty hard/tannic on the palate; needs age. $30.00 (AV)
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2. WindGap Nebbiolo GlenRose&LunaMattaVnyds/PasoRobles (275 cs; 14.2%; #2569) 2006: Med.light color; strong very
perfumed/aromatic quite floral/violets/carnations slight pungent/tarry/licorice bit PR/raspberry/jammy lovely
strong Nebb nose; softer bit hard/tannic light pungent/tarry slight PR/raspberry/jammy lovely floral/violets
light pencilly/oak flavor; very long floral/violets/carnations/aromatic slight tarry/pungent/licorice bit tannic/
hard finish; wonderful aromatics and speaks strongly of Nebb; needs 2-6 yrs yet; the most varietal Nebb of the
three Calif versions. $45.00
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3. Harrington Nebbiolo PasoRobles (14.1%; ABJ+LunaMatta vnyds; www.HarringtonWines.com) 2009: Med.light color; lovely
very fragrant/aromatic floral/raspberry/Pinot-like/spicy slight pungent/tarry light pencilly/oak very perfumed/Pinot-
like nose; fairly tart slight tannic/bitey very floral/violets/raspberry/cherry bright/very spicy light pungent/tar
light pencilly/oak almost Pinotish-like flavor; very long raspberry/Nehi cherry soda pop/floral/violets/fragrant
bit tannic/bitey slight pencilly/oak lingering finish; a terrifically perfumed/aromatic delicate/elegant almost
Pinot-like but still speaks quietly of Nebbiolo; beautiful wine.
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4. LaClarineFarm PiediGrandi SierraFoothills RW (56% Nebbiolo/30% Syrah/9% Mourvedre/2.5% Viognier/2.5% Roussanne;
14.2%; www.LaClarineFarm.com) 2010: Med.dark color; rather pungent/smokey/earthy slight funky/mushroomy rather
strong grapey/lush/floral/musky quite perfumed/aromatic nose; soft/lush quite grapey/floral/raspberry slight earthy/
funky/mushroomy flavor w/ light tannins; med.long soft/lush/ripe grapey/raspberry/floral slight mushroomy/earthy
finish w/ light tannins; only vaguely speaks of Nebbiolo but very grapey/perfumed and quite a nice wine. $20.00 (K&L)
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5. Anzivino DOC: Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo (13%; www.VillaItaliaWines.com) Gattinara 2005: Med.dark color; rather tarry/
earthy/pungent slight floral/violets bit earthy/mineral/granitic/stony some peppery/spicy very interesting nose;
fairly tart slight tannic/bitey some tarry/road tar/pungent rather peppery/spicy light floral/violets bit earthy/mineral
flavor; long slight tannic peppery/pungent/tarry light floral/violets/Nebb finish; a quite fragrant/lovely Nebb w/
a noticible road tar component. Great price at $14.40 (WoP)
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6. Ca'Nova Bocciolo DOC: CollineNovaresi Nebbiolo (13.00%) 2006: Med.color w/ slight bricking; lovely perfumed/floral/
lilacs/violetsslight pungent/tarry/RCCola/spicy quite perfumed/aromatic nose; some tart slight tannic quite spicy/
aromatic/floral/lilacs/violets light pungent/tarry/RCCola very aromatic flavor; fairly long strong floral/violets/
lilacs slight tannic/bitey bit tarry/pungent/RCCola/spicy finish; a really lovely aromatic/floral/perfumed Nebb
w/ modest tannins. $30.00 (WE)
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7. Mamete Prevostini Botonero IGT: Nebbiolo Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio (13%; www.MametePrevostini.com) Mese
2010: Rather light color; really lovely fragrant Nebb/floral/violets slight mineral/earthy light pungent/tarry quite
aromatic almost Pinot-like nose; tart bit earthy/mineral some floral/violets/Nebb slight tarrt/pungent rather light/
delicate/elegant quite perfumed flavor w/ light tannins; very long delicate/elegant fairly smooth w/ slight tannic bite
light very perfumed/floral/violets/Nebb lovely finish; a beautiful light elegant/delicate quite fragrant Nebb at
a stupid/silly price. $17.00 (K&L)
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8. Mamete Prevostini DOC: Grumello Valtellina Superiore (13.5%) 2007: Med.light color; slight oaked/toasted coconut
deeper more tarry/pungent some floral/lilacs/Nebb quite attractive fragrant noose; bit more richer/pungent/tarry
fragrant floral/lilacs/Nebb slight earthy/mineral light vanilla/oak fairly rich/intense flavor w/ smooth tannins;
very long strong/pungent/tarry/licorice/mineral some floral/lilacs/Nebb finish w/ modest tannins; can still use
several yrs; a bit more intense/tarry but still a more delicate-style of Nebb. $25.00 (K&L)
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9. Ar.Pe.Pe. DOC: Rosso di Valtellina (Nebbiolo; 950 cs; 13%) ArturoPelizzatti Perego/Sondrio 2007: Med.color w/
slight bricking; somewhat earthy/tarry/dusty/loamy rather aged/Barolo light aromatic/rose petal/violets light
smokey/pungent elegant/delicate nose; tart bit tannic/dried out light earthy/dusty/tarry light rose petal/old
Barolo bit tired flavor; med. slight tart bit tannic/dried out light earthy/tarry/rose petal finish; resembles
some an old Barolo but seems rather tired/dried out and old before its time; quite earthy and lacking in perfume
and fruit. Overpriced at $37.00 (BWM), but underpriced for old Barolo.
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10. Cantina Ar.Pe.Pe. Sassella RocceRosse Riserva Sassella DOC: Valtellina Superiore (12.5%; 95% Nebbiolo/
3% Brugnola/2% PinotNoir; 3-4 yrs in chestnut brls; 1090 cs; www.TellitaliaImports.com) 1996: Light color w/
some bricking; strong rather overripe tobaccoy/pencilly very perfumed/aromatic faded rose petal light tarry
quite complex oldNebb/Barolo beautiful mature nose; tart lovely/complex oldBarolo/rose petal/violets/floral
rather smooth flavor w/ smooth/polished tannins; very long/lingering complex/oldBarolo/rose petals/violets light
tarry/pungent/licorice/tobaccoy/pencilly finish w/ smooth/polished/elegant tannins; a beautiful example of
oldBarolo/oldNebb fully mature wine at a fair price. $43.00 (BWM)
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11. Cantina Ar.Pe.Pe. UltimiRaggi ("last rays of sunshine") Nebbiolo IGT: Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio/
Sassella LateHrvst (334 cs; 13.5%) 2001: Dark color w/ little bricking; very strong pungent/earthy/tarry/licorice
some plummy/ripe/floral/lilacs slight walnutty/earthy/mineral beautiful complex nose; rich/lush/ripe some pungent/
licorice/tarry/road tar light floral/lilacs/Nebb/perfumed ripe/plummy/Nebb flavor w/ some tannins; very long ripe/
plummy/blackberry some road tar/tarry/pungent light floral/aromatic/lilacs bit tannic/structured finish; a
Swartzenegger Nebb w/ huge/ripe fruit that covers the tannins; some like the Montevina Nebbs of yore; a wonderful
ripe Nebb w/ a good future ahead. Fairly priced at $40.00 (BWM)
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12. NinoNegri Sfursat DOC: Sforzato di Valtellina (15.5%) 2006: Light color w/ some bricking; some ripe/overripe/
raisened/pruney very perfumed/aromatic faded rose petals/floral/violets bit volatile/alcoholic slight tarry/road
tar/pungent/licorice some oldBarolo/oldRecioto complex nose; tart some tannic/bitey lovely delicate/floral/rose
petal/violets slight tarry/pungent/licorice rather aged/complex/elegant flavor; quite long/lingering light floral/
rose petal/violets smooth/delicate/oldBarolo bit tarry/road tar/pungent slight tannic/bitey beautiful finish; a bit
on the overripe side in the nose but a lovely oldBarolo/oldRecioto character on the palate; beautiful nearly-mature
old Nebbiolo at a very good price. $45.00 (Monopole/Pas)
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And the usual yammerings from TheBloodyPulpit:
1. As I ramp up to next month's NEB#3 event, I thought I would taste thru the Nebbs I'd accumulated over the last
year. It's been a good many yrs since I'd done a tasting focused on Nebb. By and large, the people in my group
were very impressed w/ all the wines.
We talked a bit about the market for Calif Nebbiolo. One of the members commented on the lightness and lack
of extract in the Calif Nebbs. He opined that, if they couldn't achieve greater density and intensity in the wines,
they would never be a commercial success, get big scores, and be able to command big $$$'s in the market.
I agreed w/ him and pointed out that Calif Nebb had already been declared a failure by one Monktown attourney.
I think most of the Calif Nebb producers recognize that, that it will only be a niche market, that it's not
going to be the next big Merlot or Pinot wave. I pointed out that most of the Calif Nebb producers I've talked
with are in it for the challenge of making a good/great Calif Nebb and great commercial success is not part
of their dream.
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2. I've had sort of a love/hate relationship w/ Nebbiolo over the yrs. The first Piedmonte Nebbiolos I tried, back
in my Kansas days, left me pretty cold and unmoved. It wasn't until I started buying Italian Nebbs from
DarrellCorti that I done did see the light. I was wowed by some of the Scarpa and Mascarello Nebbs he sold me.
And then....then....I discovered up at Boulder's LiquorMart the Valtelline Nebbs of ArturoPelizzatti. They
really made a believer out of me for the glories of the variety.
I am still not a big fan of Barolo/Barbaresco. I liken drinking young B/B to "stuffing lilac petals up one
nostril, stuffing violet petals up the other nostril, sealing both with a plug of hot road tar; then sticking
your tongue out between the jaws of a vise and torquing that sucker down....there are some pleasurable things
therein...but there's also a lot of pain involved". I love the perfume/fragrance that B/B display in the nose,
but have a difficult time w/ the hard/tannic bite when it clamps down on your palate.
My complaints about B/B are always dismissed w/ a wave of the hand that I've drunk them too young; that they
always needs considerable age. Sometimes my whining is dismissed w/ a condescending wave of the hand that I
didn't give them hours/a day/several days/a week of time to breathe; that they always improve w/ breathing.
Baloney I say....I've done that experiment w/ B/B and given them a half day or day breathing time and I've
never found significant improvements and softening of the tannins by the breathing process.
Anyway, at this point I'm ready to declare that Piedmonte Nebbiolo is a sham....that it does not deserve
the adulation as one of the World's great wines. That said....every once in a blue moon, I'll have an older B/B
that will absolutely blow me away w/ its ethereal perfume...a perfume you only find in mature Nebbiolo.
And that...alas....is what keeps leading me like a dumbass back to Piedmonte Nebbiolo. Some people never learn.
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3. Prevostini: I had never had any of the wines from this producer before. I was mightly impressed with them.
They seem to have a more delicate/elegant style to them then others from the Valtelline. Their WebSite is worth
taking a look at. Absolutely spectacular/beautiful pics of their vnyds.
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4. I've long maintained that Calif producers of Nebbiolo should not be looking to Barolo/Barbaresco for their model/
paradigm for Nebb. The people who love B/B are going to dismiss their efforts because they don't/can't smell/taste
like B/B...no matter who good the wines are. Forget those people..they're not going to like the Calif efforts.
To my mind, Calif should be looking to other/greater areas in Italy for their model of Calif Nebb....namely
the Colline Novarese, the OltropoPavese, and, particularly, the Valtelline. Those are the areas of Italy that,
to my mind, make the most distinctive, flavorful, and interesting Nebbs in that country. I'd love to see what a
Calif Nebb Sfursat is like.
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5. Ar.Pe.Pe: Since I lost track of the ArturoPelizatti Valteline Nebbs way back in the '70's; I've not found producers
of those Nebbs quite as exciting as the Pelizattis I recall. So I was excited to find the reincarnation of those
wines several yrs ago served me an Ar.Pe.Pe wine. I've had some 6-8 since then and find them to be consistently
the best of the Valtelline Nebbs. These last two Ar.Pe.Pe were some of the best I've had from the Valtelline.
I also like the SandroFay, Conti Sertoli, and Balgera wines quite a lot.
Tom

Well done as usual Tom! I have made note of some and will look for them. I like the sound of the Harrington wines but their web page does not list a price. They do say that I could email them for price and or availability, but that seems to be a lot of trouble. The LaClarineFarm PiediGrandi SierraFoothills sound interesting too, and their price is in my range. The Anzivino DOC: Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo is also in the right price range,m and your write-up makes it one I HAVE to at least try to find. Then there is the Mamete Prevostini Botonero IGT: Nebbiolo Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio carried by K&L (they do carry a lot of good wines in a price range that is inviting). Again I have to try to find it or see if K&L will ship, even if I have to ship to Ohio and then drive up to get them. There used to be a Cali producer that I liked quite a bit, but somehow I can't remember the name. Robin was a fan and it was through him that I found them. Robin, if you read this and can remember, jog my memory for me please.

Tom, I always like seeing your posts that have the long/boring tag on them.

[Robin Garr]

There used to be a Cali producer that I liked quite a bit, but somehow I can't remember the name. Robin was a fan and it was through him that I found them. Robin, if you read this and can remember, jog my memory for me please.

Bob, you're probably thinking about Mosby, in Buellton. Bill Mosby has a real passion for growing Italian varieties in California and must make about 30 of them. They've never really gotten on a lot of wine-geek lists, but I've generally found them palatable, and Greg, their tasting-room guy, is a transplanted Kentuckian who loves to hear from people in the Bluegrass State.

There used to be a Cali producer that I liked quite a bit, but somehow I can't remember the name. Robin was a fan and it was through him that I found them. Robin, if you read this and can remember, jog my memory for me please.

Bob, you're probably thinking about Mosby, in Buellton. Bill Mosby has a real passion for growing Italian varieties in California and must make about 30 of them. They've never really gotten on a lot of wine-geek lists, but I've generally found them palatable, and Greg, their tasting-room guy, is a transplanted Kentuckian who loves to hear from people in the Bluegrass State.

Robin, I knew your memory would be better than mine! M0osby is indeed the name I was trying to come up with. I too enjoyed them until whoever the distributor was dropped the label. Haven't seen hem in this part of the country in years. I'll email or otherwise contact them to see if they think they will again have a presence in Ky. Thanks.

There used to be a Cali producer that I liked quite a bit, but somehow I can't remember the name. Robin was a fan and it was through him that I found them. Robin, if you read this and can remember, jog my memory for me please.

Bob, you're probably thinking about Mosby, in Buellton. Bill Mosby has a real passion for growing Italian varieties in California and must make about 30 of them. They've never really gotten on a lot of wine-geek lists, but I've generally found them palatable, and Greg, their tasting-room guy, is a transplanted Kentuckian who loves to hear from people in the Bluegrass State.

Looking at their WebSite...it makes no mention of Nebbiolo being produced. They do have Teroldego and Sagrantino,
plus the other usual Italian suspects.
Tom

Hi Tom -

Thank you for the great notes as usual - you managed to cover a lot of ground with this group of wines. Glad to see Valtellina getting some respect - I've also liked a couple of the Nino Negri wines in the past. I also tried a couple of the Conti Sertori Salis wines at the Boston Wine Expo a few years back, when there was a large Lombardian contingent exhibiting there. Although they were definitely nice, I've never seen them sold anywhere around my area. Triacca and Rainoldi are two others from Valtellina that I've have luck with.

We'll agree to differ on Barolo/Barbaresco, however.

As far as California Nebbiolo, I liked the 2001 Clendenen Bricco Buon Natale a couple of years ago. Haven't tried anything from Mosby yet.

I tasted the Ar Pe Pe line at Vinitaly and was very impressed. The winemaking in the Valtellina is not always as clean as it could be, but their wines are excellent.

Many thanks for these notes Tom, as well-considered as ever, but this time on a favourite grape and including wines from the north of Piemonte, as well as what sound very interesting Cali interpretations (well maybe two of them). By chance we're just back from a long holiday in Italy - including a good few days in Ghemme, so it's especially good to see wines from that region represented.

It was especially interesting to taste a few Ghemme/Gattinara and build a better picture of the regional style. In some respects I find more 'tar and roses' on these wines than the two B's from the south of the region, yet at the same time they're generally leaner and I'm sure some would say "more mineral". There's not the richness that one sees so often in Barolo/Barbaresco, especially these days (albeit rarely/never the sort of richness that other grapes can deliver). This seems to make them an even more hazardous ageing prospect as aged examples can sometimes be a little wishy-washy. That said, some of the Spanna/Gattinaras from the 1970s and before have turned into exceptional old wines.

regards
Ian