What about Vino Nobile?

Chianti is the wine everyone knows (or at least thinks they do). Brunello is the Tuscan appellation that gets the vast majority of high end and critical press and scrutiny. And poor old Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is lost somewhere in between. I was in the region last summer, and went to a trade tasting recently with many Vino Nobiles. Based on my experience, the quality level is quite high and there are many interesting winery or family stories. Not to mention the staggering beauty of the region itself. Yet the typical Italian wine list or retailer will have 10-20 Chiantis, 5-10 Brunellos and 1 or 2 Vino Nobile at best. Where's the love?

I'm a fan of Vino Nobile! In fact a Tuscan wine dinner I'm doing this weekend most definitely includes one. The various Tuscan DOCG's are very much like the villages of the Cote d'Or, in my opinion - it is not merely a question of quality, it is also one of terroir, and Vino Nobile indeed offers something just as unique as Montalcino.

I wonder if part of the reason for its unfair obscurity is the fact that people confuse it with the Montepulciano grape?

I think from a US standpoint Ryan is correct, confusion with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo doesn't help from marketing standpoint.
My impression- maybe incorrect- is that VNdM is considerably smaller than Chianti as far as production area and number of producers. I think it might actually be smaller than Brunello di Montalcino

According to Berry Bros Rudd, only about 800 ha. As opposed to 1200+ ha from Brunello di Montalcino and 7000 for Chianti Classico (and 17,000 for all Chianti)
http://www.bbr.com/region-3783-vino-nob ... tepulciano

Doesn't mean a lot, but one reason for seeing it less.

According to Berry Bros Rudd, only about 800 ha. As opposed to 1200+ ha from Brunello di Montalcino and 7000 for Chianti Classico (and 17,000 for all Chianti)
http://www.bbr.com/region-3783-vino-nob ... tepulciano

Doesn't mean a lot, but one reason for seeing it less.

Interesting to note that that is about 33% more than the combined acreage of Hermitage and Cote-Rotie, and those are much more expensive than Vino Nobile, and yet a good wine shop will have at least a few of each, whereas they are doing exceptionally well to have two offerings for Vino Nobile. Again, that doesn't necessarily tell you much, but it is a contrast.

Edited to add: Actually, maybe the better analog is Pomerol, also about 800 ha. Same arguments apply.

Interesting to note that that is about 33% more than the combined acreage of Hermitage and Cote-Rotie, and those are much more expensive than Vino Nobile, and yet a good wine shop will have at least a few of each, whereas they are doing exceptionally well to have two offerings for Vino Nobile. Again, that doesn't necessarily tell you much, but it is a contrast.

Edited to add: Actually, maybe the better analog is Pomerol, also about 800 ha. Same arguments apply.

Well, I was just comparing to the two other Tuscany DOCGs that Christian referenced. It's not the acreage per se, but the fact that smaller production AND less prestige likely lead to one or two examples in a store. Comparison to other regions doesn;t mean much (I mean Gigondas and Vacqueras are both 50% bigger than Montepulciano, and probably about as well respresented in wine stores). If acreage was determinator of wine space on retail shelves, Georgia would have more representatives than Montalcino, Chianti, Montepulciano, Vacqueras,Gigondas, Pomerol, Cote Rotie, and Hermitage combined.

Actually, I've had some good Vino Nobile (Poliziano, Avignonesi, etc) and some insipid ones, but I've never had one I thought was great (from Chianti I've had wines from Montevertine, Felsina, Fontodi, Montesecondo, Monsanto, etc that were in my "great" range). I'd need some convincing that there is severe underrating going on, but that could well be my lack of experience (I'd say I'd had less than 2 dozen over the years).

I would tend to agree with the points about the acreage and the confusion with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

With that said, there are some very nice Vino Nobiles out there, and I'm making an effort to try a few more along with the other Sangiovese-based wines that I already enjoy.

I was fortunate enough to spend a week in Montepulciano several years ago. It's a spectacularly beautiful town -- one of the best in Tuscany IMHO -- and well worth a visit. And of course having the opportunity to visit wineries and taste lots of Vinos Nobile was a big plus, too. I really liked most of them, though for me, environment influences enjoyment. As you note, here in the U.S., there are far fewer VNdMs available than Chiantis, which I suspect is a combination of smaller production, ineffective marketing, confusion with the grape Montepulciano, and a less obvious niche than Chianti and Brunello. I still try to buy them when I can -- they're priced comparably to most Chianti Classicos and I think the quality is as good or better in most cases -- though I have had Felsinas, Selvapianas and Monsantos I'd probably rate higher.

Yes, I'm also more than happy with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Maybe a little stern in comparison to the other two regions discussed, but no worse for it IMO.