2008 Weingut von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage (Saar)
I had been thinking for a while that it had been a long time since I had opened a kabinett. Putting last night's dinner aside, I put the '08 von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg in the fridge. Upon opening it was a touch sulfurous, but air did its trick on that problem. Once the SO2 blew off there was just the essence of Saar wine - all limes, green, leafy elements and a bed of stones. The '08 vintage was apparent, as the acidity was electric, in fact leaving my tongue tingling after a couple of glasses. Delicious and refreshing would be the simple summary, but it was so much more than that. Certainly the wine tipped the spatlese end of the kabinett scale, but it remained delicate, ethereal and utterly drinkable from start to finish. I've seen people use the phrase "life affirming" in relation to a bottle of wine, and this is the first one I have had in a long time that can conjure up that description. I still see the '08 around in the marketplace here and there, so look for it.