1999 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco:
13.5% alcohol; showing very young, good varietal character without artifice, somewhat disjointed; never really arrived at a point of integration over the span of about 4 hours; ‘several nice elements that need time to meld. Hold. $25, on release.
2009 Sea Smoke, Pinot Noir Botella:
14.4% alcohol; considerable new oak smells with candied cherries and some graham cracker aromas; much the same in the mouth. Not my style. $40.
2010 Hugues de Beauvignac, Coteaux du Languedoc:
12.5% alcohol and 100% picpoul; sweet fruit but fine backing acidity and some minerality; bright, lightweight and charming with enough substance to make one look beyond the initial attack. Good with cheeses. $10.
Marietta Cellars, Old Vine Red, Lot number 57:
13.5% alcohol; mostly zinfandel in this field blend and a very easy to like “house pour” type of wine. Reminds me of the old days of zin. and went very well with veggie hash. Simple but satisfying. $11.
2011 Dom. Fontanyles, Côtes de Provence Rosé:
13.5% alcohol; pale salmon, bone dry and bright; as it approaches room temperature, it fleshes out nicely but does not lose its crispness. A pretty wine, a quirky bottle (think Ott); it will not replace Ott (and certainly not Tempier) but its only $13 and pleasantly refreshing.
2010 Greek Wine Cellars, Assyrtiko Santorini:
12% alcohol; at refrigerator temperature, acidic and shrill; as it warms, it fleshes out, becomes fruit driven and balanced; mostly citrus and white grape juice flavors with citrus pith accents (lending a bitter note that does not overwhelm), more volume and density than expected; balanced with bright acidity and good sustain. Diane makes a mushroom, celery and parmesan salad that this wine matched beautifully. About $13.
2010 Jadot, Mâcon-Villages:
An intense wine but, for now, disjointed; leaves the impression that all the pieces are competing with each other. Perhaps, harmony is in its future but not something I want more of today. About $12.
2010 Primosic, Ribolla Gialla Poderi di Carlo:
12% alcohol; lightly lemony, crisp, peppery and bone dry – but somehow more than just that – volume without weight, a texture of worsted wool, the feeling of a discernable structure. Not fermented on the skins put the phenolics play a noticeable role. The closer to room temp., the more one gets. As an accompaniment to pasta primavera with feta, excellent. About $13.
2010 Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages:
13% alcohol; this is beautiful – balanced, flavorful, true to its place, ripe without being over-ripe and longer than I expect for Villages. A terrific rendition of this wine that rises to levels well above typical for the AOC. About $10.
Best, Jim