WTN: ESJ, Montevertine, Haut-Gravet, and Gatinois on MomDay

Last night we leashed the basset hound and walked to some friends’ home, where Lucy’s poodle friend Jaja and some bones awaited her. A nice dinner awaited us, along with some wine (I had dropped off a few bottles previously)

With some nibbles (stuffed cherry peppers, proscuitto and mozzarella) and then garlicky grilled clams

NV Gatinois Grand Cru Brut Champagne
A new grower Champagne for me. Fuller style, though with a fine delicate mousse. Rich, full, fresh apple with citrus zest and buttermilk biscuits. Very nice, and I’ll look for this again. B+

Betsy had brought a spinach/bacon/quail egg salad, and host made a wonderfully light veal Bolognese and pasta, with:

2001 Edmunds St John “Bassett” Syrah (ok, it originally said Bassetti, but with a marker it became a Mother’s Day gift from the hound to Betsy).
This was really showing well- smoky, meaty, delicious dark fruits. Tannins are present but not
obtrusive, good length, just delightful. A-

1997 Montevertine “Il Sodaccio”
Full red cherry fruit, leather, anise. Pleasant and drinking well, but I don’t think there’s a lot in reserve here. Another argument for drinking up 1997 Tuscany. B

2008 Haut Gravet (St Emilion)
Tight, eventually opens up a bit, plums, a bit of herb, some oak. B

Great night to sit outside and then walk home.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Another argument for drinking up 1997 Tuscany.

I've been exposed to quite a bit of '97 Tuscans in recent months and, indeed, very few are aging gracefully. The Pergole Torte, however, was one of the few that was faring well - it was perhaps the only one we tried that might actually benefit from more age.

When you say 'Drink up Tuscany' are you including Brunello in that, because the ones that I've had are holding nicely?

Otto, at a big Montevertine tasting I enjoyed the '97 Pergole Torte, but it was still probably my least fave that night (of about 8 vintages of PT).

Mark, I don't have a big sample. But I've been disappointed in Fuligni, Antinori, and Altesino Montosoli in last few years -most seem to have drying tannins and are a bit low acid for me. Maybe a dumb period, but aging pattern doesn't seem to be going where I'd like. I liked the Pertimali a bit more. Which ones have you liked?

Dale, I'd have to review my notes. I remember liking Costanti very much (at least the one that wasn't corked ) . I had about 3 others over the last 5 years and found them to be very youthful, if a little stern. For my tastes, I really enjoy the 2001's, and wish I had more of them. They have great fruit, good texture, and are beginning to drink well.