WTN: Mature bottles from Bordeaux left and right banks

Château Moulin Pey-Labrie – Canon-Fronsac 1998 – Alc.12.5%, then made from Merlot 70%, CabSauv 20%, CabFranc 10%. As usual with this Saint-Emilion ringer, the wine showed aromas of rich quite sweet red fruit and red roses with a dab of kirsch and nice mineral touches coupled with a palate showing quite full body, complex dark fruit and enough acidity and grip to ward off Merlot’s besetting sins of jamminess and cloy; there was firmer tannic structure and less bloom to the fruit than I remember from my last bottle of 1999; 16/20.

Château Poujeaux - Moulis en Médoc - 1988 – Jean Theil – Alc.12.5% was IMO at its peak and close to my ideal for bourgeois claret. Its aromas still seemed quite youthful with some lively red fruit enhanced by some marked but lovely forestal greenness (see below) which IMO is indispensable to claret. The palate was robustly medium/full bodied with some depth of mineral tinged savoury fruit, lively acidity, an underlying roundness and still some firmness on the finish. From memory this leans more towards distinguished austerity and less towards charm than 89 and 90 (I have one bottle of each left) but very fine in its own way; probably less of a crowd pleaser than the preceding Canon-Fronsac but for me 17/20.

I read elsewhere that such "forestal greenness" - or "bell pepper" or "herbaceous notes", if you prefer – is attributable to methoxypyrazines. From a brief Google, it seems that among many New World “experts” the presence of these is considered a wine fault in red wines . For my palate, the Moulin Pey-Labrie would have benefited from more obvious methoxypyrazines. I really worry that Bordeaux producers in the quest of WA and WS points may try to eliminate such flavours and thus dumb down their wines.

I read elsewhere that such "forestal greenness" - or "bell pepper" or "herbaceous notes", if you prefer – is attributable to methoxypyrazines. From a brief Google, it seems that among many New World “experts” the presence of these is considered a wine fault in red wines . For my palate, the Moulin Pey-Labrie would have benefited from more obvious methoxypyrazines. I really worry that Bordeaux producers in the quest of WA and WS points may try to eliminate such flavours and thus dumb down their wines.

In the northeastern US and Canada, the bell pepper is often present in both Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. It is considered an expression of under-ripe grapes. I think in very under-ripe grapes, especially Cab Sauv, it can be detrimental. But, generally, I like it. I believe that ripeness, as shown in many CA Cabs is actually over-ripe.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabernet_Sauvignon

I read elsewhere that such "forestal greenness" - or "bell pepper" or "herbaceous notes", if you prefer – is attributable to methoxypyrazines. From a brief Google, it seems that among many New World “experts” the presence of these is considered a wine fault in red wines . For my palate, the Moulin Pey-Labrie would have benefited from more obvious methoxypyrazines. I really worry that Bordeaux producers in the quest of WA and WS points may try to eliminate such flavours and thus dumb down their wines.

In the northeastern US and Canada, the bell pepper is often present in both Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. It is considered an expression of under-ripe grapes. I think in very under-ripe grapes, especially Cab Sauv, it can be detrimental. But, generally, I like it. I believe that ripeness, as shown in many CA Cabs is actually over-ripe.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabernet_Sauvignon

Howie, thanks for that link. I am more or less on the same page as you. Excessive bell pepper and acidity caused by under-ripeness is disagreeable but none at all in a Bordeaux blend is boring, IMO. I suppose that determination of what is excessive is a matter of taste. Unfortunately, there seems to be a trend for Bordeaux as well as California to go down the over-ripeness route.

Indeed ths was a serious issue in Israel and other kosher wines for the longest time. The ines were so sweet or over ripe that the wine had flavors of oxidation or dates or raisins. Thankfully, this is changing in the kosher world, though the newest 2009 release of Cali Cabernets are indeed leaning towards the overripe.

I think the years of 2010 and 2011 wil be hard to show over ripe fruit, because of the cold weather in Cali and in other parts of the world. Overall, I think the overripe and fruit laden wines are slowing in popularity and the more balanced and acid focused wines are becoming a more common option than we had before.

To me examples of this in the kosher world are four gates, recanati, some from Carmel, Spanish wine maker Elvi wines, and others. Unfortunately, the most famous of Israel's wineries - Yarden winery, is still leaning towards the heavy and overripe, but lovely wines, and that is why they are mostly ignored by WA and score low in WS.

David

I have no problem at all with some herbaceousness. It adds to complexity, and in that sense can only help. But that's the key- to add to complexity, not overwhelm the fruity profile of the wine. A luxurious olive or pepper note to a largely fruit profile is no more objectionable than a molasses or soy sauce or ketchup note. Like all things, moderation is key. I believe those who try to rid wine of all pyrazines often will end up with wines of little interest, especially Cabernet based wines and the like. On the other hand, wines the profiles of which are overwhelmingly green bell pepper/ fresh or cooked asparagas/ massive green olive have limited utility in terms of being a pleasant drink on their own, or pairing with food.