WTN: Lovely dry whites from Dönnhoff and Clos Rougeard

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese trocken – 12 - 2002 – Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff – Alc.12%. I think that 2002 is an under-rated year in MSR and Nahe and this was another fine example. The nose was very expressive without exaggeration showing white fruit and flowers, gentle spice and slightly petrol tinged minerals. The palate was medium weight, complex and genuinely dry but full of a combination of bloom, mouth-watering acidity, brilliant aromatics and underlying roundness which gave a special charm; 17.5/20.

Saumur Brézé 1999 – Clos Rougeard – Alc.12.5%, made from Chenin. Some claim that this is one of France’s greatest dry white wines. In spite of 1999’s being a less than stellar vintage, I can understand that claim on the basis of this bottle’s performance. Colour was a brilliant yellow and the aromas were both quite rich and fresh with notes of exotic fruit, touches of apple and quince and the palate was dry (but not bone dry), long and elegant with good freshness and “gras” and quite lively acidity with its wood (which disconcerted when young) now only showing itself by a polished firmness towards the finish. The best but last of the three bottles which I owned; 17/20.

Saumur Brézé 1999 – Clos Rougeard – Alc.12.5%, made from Chenin. Some claim that this is one of France’s greatest dry white wines. In spite of 1999’s being a less than stellar vintage, I can understand that claim on the basis of this bottle’s performance. Colour was a brilliant yellow and the aromas were both quite rich and fresh with notes of exotic fruit, touches of apple and quince and the palate was dry (but not bone dry), long and elegant with good freshness and “gras” and quite lively acidity with its wood (which disconcerted when young) now only showing itself by a polished firmness towards the finish. The best but last of the three bottles which I owned; 17/20.

Sounds great. I have heard that age is extremely useful for this wine. So do you wish you had more still in the cellar?

Hi Tim -

Thank you for the excellent notes. I have not had any of Dönnhoff 's dry Rieslings from 2002, but this sounds like it was a really nice wine.

Saumur Brézé 1999 – Clos Rougeard – Alc.12.5%, made from Chenin. Some claim that this is one of France’s greatest dry white wines. In spite of 1999’s being a less than stellar vintage, I can understand that claim on the basis of this bottle’s performance. Colour was a brilliant yellow and the aromas were both quite rich and fresh with notes of exotic fruit, touches of apple and quince and the palate was dry (but not bone dry), long and elegant with good freshness and “gras” and quite lively acidity with its wood (which disconcerted when young) now only showing itself by a polished firmness towards the finish. The best but last of the three bottles which I owned; 17/20.

Sounds great. I have heard that age is extremely useful for this wine. So do you wish you had more still in the cellar?

Rahsaan, I think that this 99 was probably at its peak but I wouldn't say no to anyone offering me more bottles . Regrettably I have no other vintages.

[David M. Bueker]

Tim,

Thanks for the note on the '02 Hermannshohle Trocken. I bought one bottle at the estate in 2003, so I have been waiting and waiting. Sounds like it is now as right a time as any.

Tim,

Thanks for the note on the '02 Hermannshohle Trocken. I bought one bottle at the estate in 2003, so I have been waiting and waiting. Sounds like it is now as right a time as any.

Is then years a good age in general for the Donnhoff trockens?

[David M. Bueker]

Tim,

Thanks for the note on the '02 Hermannshohle Trocken. I bought one bottle at the estate in 2003, so I have been waiting and waiting. Sounds like it is now as right a time as any.

Is then years a good age in general for the Donnhoff trockens?

I have no idea...yet.