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WTN: Melka Wine Dinner at Aria, Charlotte

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WTN: Melka Wine Dinner at Aria, Charlotte

by JC (NC) » Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:17 pm

April 19 (Thursday) was my first event of the biannual Charlotte Wine and Food Weekend. Momsieur Philippe Melka and Cherie Melka were present at the dinner. The Aria is an upscale Italian restaurant in a Bank of America building in Uptown Charlotte. The fiancee of the executive chef was at my table along with two couples connected to Bank of America and a number of other people. It was Erica's brithday (the chef's fiancee) so a special vase of flowers was brought out during the evening. We were met with Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc with five passed snacks--all quite tasty--Fontina cheese gougeres quanciale, spiced pork tenderloinon rosemary crostini, crab and avacado spoons with mango and green apple slaw, tuna cones with wasabi crema and seaweed salad, and skewers of Manchego cheese with pequillo peppers and marcona almonds.

The first seated course was roasted quall pancetta, sage, white corn polenta and wild honey. I particularly enjoyed the white corn polenta. Paired with 2008 Melka Metisse Le Chatelet Vineyard, St. Emilion Grand Cru. (Winery only exclusive.) 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. 100% barrel fermented, 75% new French oak. Aged for 20 months. Released Bastille Day, 2011. Recommended to drink or hold up to 15 years. I could identify this wine as Merlot-based. Deep ruby-amethyst color; nearly opaque. Rich dark cherry/berry nose. mellow-tasting or as one gentleman at the table expressed it "soft." Soft tannins. Penetrating aroma--up the nostrils. Tasted overripe or sweet to me so not my favorite of the evening. Winery notes say the wine exhibits blac cherry and chocolate notes with the addition of spice (cloves) and tobacco. Suggested retail $125.

The next course was lamb two ways--smoked lamb loin and lamb-stuffed eggplant with a panzanella yogurt sauce. I enjoyed this course. Paired with 2008 Melka Jumping Goat, Napa Valley. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot. Aged 20 months i French oak barrels. Recommended to hold with 20 years of aging potential. Suggested retail $155. I prefered this to the St. Emilion. Mellow and smooth without being too opulent or overripe. Drinking nicely now although the winery recommends holding. Suggests a nice Bordeaux with some elegance and polish. One I would purchase if more in my price range (that is to say at $50 or $60.)

I tried to pass on the next course to save some room for dessert (Kurobuta pork belly with Tuscan cassoulet and escarole "alla siciliana") but my neighbor insisted on my having a bite from her plate. Too chewy and I was glad I was passing on this course. Paired with 2008 Melka Metisse La Mekerra Knights Valley, Sonoma, CA. 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc. 200 cases. Aged 22 months in 70% new French oak. A severe spring frost put strict limits on the quantity of grapes harvested. Low yields but equisitely balanced fruit. Leggy, dark and opaque. Mild tasting with a red currant note and floral aspects. Very gentle, elegant and pleasing on the palate and finish. Winery description says a nose that reveals dried flowers, tea, chocolate, plum, anise and kirsch. Should drink nicely for 15-20 years. Suggested retail $125.

Dessert was composed of chocolate and wild strawberries, soft chocolate ganache, praline cream, black pepper tuile (pepper hardly noticeable to my relief), and strawberry gelato. I liked every component. Paired with 2009 Melka CJ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA. This was the only wine really within my budget and I have purchased it before. Suggested retail $52. Grapes sourced beyond the estate. Winery notes say a cooler vintage led to dark fruit character. Aromas of dark cherries, cassis, tobacco with ripe, sweet fruit; hints of spice and tar. My notes say much less on the nose than the St. Emilion. More concentrated flavor than the nose suggests. Young and fresh tasting. Appears darker than the St. Emilion. I would consider purchasing this wine. My favorites of the evening were the Metisse La Mekerra and the Jumping Goat but the CJ is more in my budget range than either of those.
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Re: WTN: Melka Wine Dinner at Aria, Charlotte

by Jenise » Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:07 am

So he's actually producing a St. Emilion? That's interesting, didn't know that. Does he actually own the estate or is he doing something over there with purchased fruit?

Boy gets around. He has a presence here in WA too, in that he supposedly "makes" one of the wines produced by the Long Shadows project called Pirouette which coincidentally is my favorite of the pack. However, there's no evidence that the lauded winemaker credited with the initial releases of each wine in 2003 has stepped foot in this state since, so I don't know how much credit Melka or the rest would actually want to take for what's happened since. (Mind you, a Recent Pirouette got huge scores, but I haven't tasted it.)
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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