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WTN: 2011 Mueller-Catoir PN Rose and German Rose Primer

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Bill Hooper

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WTN: 2011 Mueller-Catoir PN Rose and German Rose Primer

by Bill Hooper » Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:33 pm

2011 Mueller-Catoir Haardt Spaetburgunder Rose Kabinett Trocken -Pfalz, Germany 12,0% alc.

Like the majority of the Rose produced in the world, German Rose is generally pretty awful. There are excellent examples to be found if one is dilligent, but much of it is produced from high-yielding Portugieser until it reaches 30 -15 g/l residual sugar, bottled by the liter, and consumed with a splash of sparkling mineral water in half liter glasses. The result is a little like White Zinfandel. Some producers will use the negative selection berries (normally heavily infected with botrytis) from varieties such as Pinot Noir or Dornfelder, or will at best bleed some juice off of the red-wine with the benefit of concentrating the latter, which is of course common in all countries. Rose of substance is generally not very sought-after and higher priced wines tend to gather dust (unless they are made into Sekt, the best of which are quite good.)

The labeling can also be confusing.
Weissherbst is the highest quality level in that it must be made from 100% of ONE named variety (the rest of Germanys wine must be 85% the named variety).

"Rose" can also be used to denote a cuvee of one or more red wine varieties (in the case of this M-C, it is entirely Pinot Noir, but is labelled Rose presumably as a nod to the international market, though that explanation is somewhat at odds with the use of the term Spaetburgunder.)

The term "Rotling" can be used when red and white grapes are vinified together. This is the same as "Schillerwein" except that the latter may only be used in Wuerttemberg with QbA or QmP wines.

"Badisch Rotgold" is a little-known variation of Rotling that can only be produced in Baden from Pinot Noit and Pinot Gris.

The Catoir is relatively new and has been produced (again) since 2009 with the re-planting of Pinot Noir at the estate. Very pretty color, juicy strawberry and white pepper, rose hips, tarragon herbaciousness, and fine acidity. It doesn't have the class perhaps of the Knipser Rose (really one of the few German pinks that can play at the same level with the French), but it is very nice and satisfied my Rose itch for a while.

Cheers,
Bill
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Andrew Bair

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Re: WTN: 2011 Mueller-Catoir PN Rose and German Rose Primer

by Andrew Bair » Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:03 pm

Hi Bill -

Thank you for the note. Haven't tried much German rose yet, but I did get an email recently offering one from Schloss Schonborn (an estate which I've had a mixed experience with).
As far as the Pfalz, I haven't cared for the Darting Portugieser Rose at all (Terry Theise sells it in liter bottles), and the J.L Wolf Rose was nothing special. Never seen anything from M-C yet that was anything besides white.

Anyway, it would be fun to try one of the Assmanhausen Spatburgunder Weissherbst TBAs at least once in my lifetime.

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