Here’s a rosé of a different sort, a wine from a traditional region that both reaffirms some traditional practices and alters others. Domaine de Gournier Rosé is from a property that traces its origins back 600 years before the modern era to the time of antiquity but is headed by a modern and forward-looking owner/winemaker.
Domaine de Gournier is located in the Costières de Nimes, a lovely sub-region placed at the crossroads of four greater regions--the mountainous Cèvennes to the north; the Rhône to the north-east, the Languedoc to the south-east, and Provence to the east--and it takes its cues at times from all four.
In vinous terms it “belongs” to the Rhône but is culturally and climatically part of the Provencal/Catalan/Occitan regions that rim the Mediterranean from Spain to Italy. The designation on the label identifies it as a Vin de Pays de Cèvennes---country wine from the hills of Cèvennes butted up against the great Massif Central mountain range.
The Provencal culture makes rosé a necessity; Rhône and Provence supply the traditional grapes of Syrah and Grenache and Mouvedre; and the Languedoc throws in the surprising “new” varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the mix.
Although the mix of grapes is unusual---Cabernet and Merlot are abundant in the Languedoc, but not profuse in either the Rhône or Provence---the method of making the wine is traditional. The grapes are very lightly pressed in fermentation to extract light but vivid color elements, then fermented as white wine so the delicate aromas, flavors, fruit and acidity are maintained.
The traditional tones of the Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre give a comforting familiarity in this rosé; but the additions of Cabernet and Merlot add a firm body, a touch of tannins for structure and a pleasant bitterness on the finish, and deeper colors than usual. Since the wine is fermented in stainless steel, it’s fresh and lively and there’s no wood element in the way of the primary fruit flavors.
Domaine de Gournier Rosé 2011 is a sturdy little wine, fruit-laden but enhanced with light spices and delicious earthy flavors, and ideal for the light foods of summer but fully capable of holding up to richer fare as well, so don’t be afraid to serve it with either a chicken salad or with grilled meats---it will do well with both.
Domaine de Gournier has an interesting story that’s well told on their website. There’s ancient history and modern, complete with devastating floods and miraculous comebacks. It’s worth reading.
Domaine de Gournier wines are a part of the impressive Robert Kacher Selections portfolio in the United States.