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WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

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WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by David M. Bueker » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:34 am

Fired up the charcoal to grill some breads and burgers. Salil brought some dal, and of course we drank fairly well.

N.V. Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Sekt
Served blind I was completely off base with this. It was incredibly bubbly and yeasty, to the point of it being initially hard to taste, but time in glass brought out some nice fruit, that seemed rather red on the finish. I had no clue it was a Riesling. So far I like this wine more than anything else from Lauer.

1997 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese
Before Salil was born I received a letter in the mail. It came from the future, and it was Salil asking to try this wine from my cellar. Fast forward to yesterday, and the wine was finally opened. It's still young. Lots of stone fruit, some creamy elements, but also just a ton of extract and sweetness that still needs to calm down. It was hard to believe how youthful this wine was.

1997 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese
Salil brought this to accompany the Brucke. It was visibly more youthful, but on the palate it was more ready to drink. Leaner (in a good way) than the Brucke, showing some crisp peach fruit, but also notable, complex herbal tones and much more minerality. Finished quite dry. Delicious and ready to go unless you want full on aged Riesling character at the expense of fruit and balance.

2001 Château Pape Clément
Wood. Lots of wood. There's also some wood. Did I mention the oak? There's also a ton of very ripe fruit, so I suppose I can just lay down my remaining bottles for 15 more years and hope for the best.
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by Salil » Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:49 am

Well, thanks for finally opening that Brucke. :D The Hermannshohle for me was the class of the night though; loved the complexity, cut and the ethereal quality to the flavours. I'm amazed by how much more time that Brucke needs, from a vintage I thought produced some pretty accessible wines.

Hope that Pape Clement comes around with time, though I'm not optimistic given the dominant toasty character. Such a shame from those smoke and gravel infused clarets they produced in the old days. (We'll drink an '88 some time in fall...)

The char-grilled burger was quite awesome and deserves more praise. One of the best burgers I've had in some time.
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by Dale Williams » Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:03 am

thanks for the notes. I like the Lauer Sekt, but it's priced at a point where there are other bubblies I like more.

2001 Pape Clement was maybe the last wine I bought on an RP rec. I'm a long term PC fan, and as I recall he said the best PC in decades. Not for my tastes.
But I thought it better at Matt's 2001 tasting last year than I did circa 2004, when I tasted what I had bought.
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by ChaimShraga » Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:41 pm

Wait a minute, Doc. Ah... Are you telling me that you built a time machine... out of a wine fridge?
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by Rahsaan » Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:07 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:N.V. Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Sekt
Served blind I was completely off base with this... I had no clue it was a Riesling.


Out of curiosity, what did you guess it was?
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by Tim York » Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:25 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:2001 Château Pape Clément
Wood. Lots of wood. There's also some wood. Did I mention the oak? There's also a ton of very ripe fruit, so I suppose I can just lay down my remaining bottles for 15 more years and hope for the best.


Two or three years ago, I tasted a lot of the Magrez range, presented by the polished but pompous scion of a Belgian aristocratic family. The wines were like that too and were nearly all over-oaked, particularly the whites, but I tempered my dislike with the mental reservation that the reds at least might age gracefully. So it is disappointing to read that this Pape-Clément is showing so badly in its 11th year.

What also disappoints me is the praise that the Magrez wines get from high profile critics, both American and French :roll: .
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by David M. Bueker » Sat Apr 07, 2012 4:26 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
David M. Bueker wrote:N.V. Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Sekt
Served blind I was completely off base with this... I had no clue it was a Riesling.


Out of curiosity, what did you guess it was?


A 60/40 blend of chard and pinot.
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by Rahsaan » Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:10 pm

Interesting. Sounds richer than the average Riesling Sekt.
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Re: WTN: Dinner with Salil (Lauer, Donnhoff, Pape Clement)

by SteveEdmunds » Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:01 am

I think the first Pape Clement I tasted was the '67, which was quite lovely, neither over-ripe nor noticeably woody, but really fine and rather gentle. A great example of Graves in its charming iteration. Not likely to satisfy the likes of prominent, pointy king-makers, but there you go.
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