We thought that Germaine's significant birthday (one ending with 0) merited a special party. So the family gathered from four corners of Europe, Helsinki, Rome, London and rural Normandy and the house was full for a few days. Germaine's brother, nephews, niece and their spouses also came from nearby Antwerp where, in contrast to our kids, they all live within 5 miles of each other.
Naturally we got through a lot of wine during those few days. Nature cooperated by providing radiant weather and unseasonably warm temperatures which allowed us to spend a lot of time in the garden. The party was great fun. A local caterer provided a cold buffet and I provided the wines. I have already posted TNs after trying out Beaujolais blanc Terres Dorées 2010 from Brun and Côtes du Rhône Le petit Piolas 2010 from Domaine la Fourmente and suffice it to say that they were even more delicious that those TNs imply in the party context. This was the bubbly -
Crémant d’Alsace brut – Domaine Valentin Zusslin – Alc.12.5% - was a perfect party bubbly with some nice round white fruit and lively acidity rather less fat but more minerals than the crémant from René Muré which I habitually drink; 15.5/20.
The next bottles were served at various other meals and in addition several bottles were consumed of Cahors Croze de Pys 2009 and Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel Mas Jaume 2010 which I have written about previously as excellent QPR at <€5/bottle.
Beaune1er cru Clos des Mouches 2001 - Chanson Père & Fils – Alc.13%. This Beaune showed lively black currant and blueberry like fruit and an aromatic intensity which were somewhat reminiscent of a lot of New World offerings as well as lively acidity and nicely grainy minerals. I would suspect some manipulation by commercial yeasts, were not Chanson’s owners the eminently respectable Bollinger firm. Still quite youthful and overall very enjoyable, although not very Burgundian IMO; 16/20.
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Superior 2007 – C. von Schubert – Alc.11.5%. I was rather disappointed by this bottle. Not that it was in any way a bad wine and it was liked by the company but I expect something extra from a prestige Grünhaus bottling. It was medium+ bodied, unusual from this source, and showed enough RS to be close to medium/dry. There was attractive white fruit with peach hints, stony minerals and lively acidity but it was less bright in focus and more plodding than most Grünhaus without a lot of complex aromatic development at this stage. Perhaps the fifth year is a bad time to open this bottling and I certainly enjoyed a bottle a couple of years ago more than this judging by the TN. My last bottle, I fear, so I’ll never know what more age could do for it; 15/20++.
Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Kabinett – 3 – 2002 – C. von Schubert – Alc.7.5% - was much more what I want from Grünhaus; medium/light bodied and nimble on its feet with all the bright focus I want together with gentle sweetness offset by mouth-watering acidity, delicate fruit, stony minerals and interestingly fragrant aromatics; 16/20+
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett – 24 - 2000 – Joh.Jos. Prüm – Alc.7.5% - was sweeter seeming and more complex than the Herrenberg with some fascinating aromatics but also a soft centre and even a suggestion of botrytis (noble? a vintage effect?). Very enjoyable though too rich for what I want in Kabinett and somewhat flawed; nevertheless 16/20.
IGT Toscana - Lucilla 2009 – Castello di Farnetella – Alc.13%- (c.€10), made from Sangiovese 70% and the balance from CabSauv and Merlot. This was an attractive Tuscan with round and ripe red fruit, minerals and some tangy acidity but perhaps less than usual due to a rich vintage. There were mild wood notes which will probably integrate better with a bit more ageing; 15.5/20.
IGT Toscana – Fontalloro 1997 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc.13.5% - was slightly disappointing and some of us preferred the previous. There was a cabbage like oxidative element on the nose which receded as the aromas developed and some mature and complex elements including old book, dried fruit, forest floor and old leather came to the fore backed up by medium body and some resolving but rather dusty tannic structure. I like an evolved wine like this but I can’t help feeling that this bottle was drying out and would have been more widely appreciated two or three years ago; 16/20+ for me.
Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert du Lattay Cuvée Nectar 1996 – Domaine du Sauveroy, Pascal Cailleau– Alc.13% - was popular with the assembled company for its quite full body and its notes of candied apricot and peach, dark complexion and burnished structure but I would have appreciated more lively acidity and piquant minerality. I would have guessed more than 13% alcohol because of a seemingly hot finish and 1997 rather than 1996 for the unexciting acidity. However, popular with those who liked this opulent style but no more than 15.5/20 for me.
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