WTN: '07 Silver Thread Pinot Noir

2007 Pinot Noir, Silver Thread Vineyards, Finger Lakes (NY):

I've always had a soft spot for the gentle Pinot Noirs produced by Richard Figiel at this small winery. This is one of the pioneers in organic viticulture in the Finger Lakes, a humble, labor of love type of place whose dirt road kept out the limos and buses. Richard started out in the '80s growing Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir and in recent years Cabernet Franc and Gewurztraminer have been added. I recently learned that Figiel has sold out to a young couple, Paul and Shannon Brock, who, from their website, appear to be carrying on the sustainable practices of the past. So I raise a glass to the departing Richard and wish the new folks the best.

On to the wine: Light to mid carmine, with a tiny bit of brick creeping in, there is a bit of sediment present. A real Pinot color, not some over-extracted purple monster. Mid weight, fragrant and bright, with a lazer like sour cherry and touches of tar, roses and earth. Oak not obvious. Not particularly new-world, try this if you appreciate the lean, athletic style. $20, no abv % given!

Joe: years ago when you were kind enough to send me detailed notes re wine touring around Seneca Lake, we visited Silver Thread and tasted there, the PN was indeed quite nice..Can still remember the drive, once we left the main road, to get to the winery, kinda narrow ,and of course we met another car coming in the opposite direction

Sad to say but I rember the driveway more than the one from my one and only visit there.

I know that Silver Thread always promoted that they were an organic vineyard but do we know if there were 100% organic? Being organic on the east coast presents some significant challenges and could result in significant economic impact in some years. I am aware of a few vineyards that attempt to be organic but have at times had to resort to a bigger toolbox.

Brian,
I've heard winemakers in the area say similar things. And I can't really blame anyone for resorting to measures when needed (there are several producers who say this is their normal practice). Now when I first encountered Silver Thread I noticed they had some sort of organic certification, but after awhile it disappeared. Once I asked Richard about this and he told me that the certifying body increased the distance that was needed to separate a certified vineyard from one that sprayed, and his didn't meet the new requirement, so he just kept on doing what he always had, but without the certification.

There are some other vineyards that claim they are organic - off the top of my head the Ingle Vineyard of Heron Hill and some of the vineyards used by Bloomer Creek. And there was the truly horrible Four Chimneys Winery, hybrids only, I think, but like Coturri, the problems went far beyond the grapes used.