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WTN: Italy, France, Germany, and Lebanon

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Italy, France, Germany, and Lebanon

by Dale Williams » Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:05 pm

We had 2 couples over for dinner Sunday, started with a simple shrimp cocktail and a bubbly. The NV Peter Lauer Riesling Sekt (I think that's all it said, those Lauer labels are a visual mess!) had a lot of ripeness, ful-bodied, quite popular though at $30 I didn't find it a bargain. B

The 2010 Lauer "Senior - Fass 6" Riesling was an acquistion from a friend who found it too acidic. I'm puzzled by that, as while it definitely has high acids it seems in balance to me. Comes across as just off-dry, big and zesty, with a citrus fruit core and minerally. I had opened because I thought one person was white -only, but she is drinking reds that go better with the lamb, so this goes in fridge, where it drinks even better on day 2 and 3. B+/B

I had gotten a bone-in lamb shoulder from d'Artagnan, Betsy made a Moroccan accented roast, cooked 8 hours on low heat, really excellent. There was also Israeli couscous, some rather spicy carrots, and salad. Wines were:

1999 Ch. Musar
This is a fairly recent release, but when I removed capsule top was dark, I decided to err on safe side by using AhSo. But it's tight and I push harder to get prong in, and whole cork pops into bottle (a bit of splash, luckily a purple tablecloth). I decanted, and worried as it seemed very volatile, even for Musar. But it calmed down quite a bit by time we sat down, red fruits with a raspberry edge, a bit of barnyard and leather, spice. Quite nice. B+

1979 Ch. du Tertre
Leather and cigarbox, black currants and earth, nice balance of acids and fruit, nice length, elegant and refined, classic Marguax. I always like these! A-

Monday I stopped by an Indian grocery for a few things including pigeon peas, grabbed some storemade samosas while I was there. Made a mint/cilantro chutney, dinner was dhal, samosas, and salad. Wine was the 2010 St. Urbans Hof "Wiltinger Alte Rebe" Riesling. This was sold as a Kabinett, but I didn't see such a designation on bottle, until I read fine print on back- Kabinett Feinherb indeed. Very light, good acids, white fruit and freshcut fennel, enjoyable though not profound. B

Tuesday (unbelievable, over 70 in Westchester, al fresco dining in March weather!) was grilled salmon, grilled asparagus with a Meyer lemon dressing, sauteed spinach and arugula, and rice. Wine was the 2010 Ch. Cambon Beaujolais Rose. On the sweeter/softer side of rose, with a nice herby edge, pleasant enough and appropriate for weather if not season. B-

Wednesday has been slightly cooler but still nice enough for eating outdoors (though Betsy wore a fleece), even if the meal wasn't as "springy." Chicken cacciatore over egg noodles and caesar salad, with the 2007 Fongoli Montefalco Rosso. Fleshy, medium acids, black cherries and a little leather, this isn't something I need more of, but not bad. B-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Andrew Bair

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Re: WTN: Italy, France, Germany, and Lebanon

by Andrew Bair » Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:48 pm

Hi Dale -

Thank you for the great notes. Although I certainly respect his opinion, I definitely liked the 2010 Lauer Senior more than David Bueker did, and agree that it will benefit from more time/air. I have not had the Lauer Sekt, although Lyle Fass was very enthusiastic about it in one of his recent emails.

I have not tried any 2010s yet from St. Urbans-Hof, but will definitely buy some eventually, as they are one of the better German QPRs available in the Boston area. Have never seen this particular bottling, however.

Finally, the 1999 Musar was quite nice when I had it a couple of years ago. The VA was rather minimal, although my note indicates that the bottle had been open for over half an hour before I tried it.
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Salil

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Re: WTN: Italy, France, Germany, and Lebanon

by Salil » Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:19 am

Glad you enjoyed the Senior. I am curious to re-visit that wine in some time, as I've found that some of the 2010s that was initially a little harsh and awkward right on release are starting to calm down with a few months in bottle.

Nice lineup and notes as always. Was the du Tertre from the Heritage lot we split?
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Italy, France, Germany, and Lebanon

by Dale Williams » Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:46 pm

Andrew, I probably bought that Sekt based on either Lyle's or someone at Chambers St opinions. And freely admit that those guys are better tasters than I am, and more knowledgable, but I especially love this bottle. But I liked this Senior (though Salil and David didn't their bottles), and in both cases for me I'm better judge. Preferences, bottle variation, physiological differences, air time, storage, food or adjacent wines, and all sorts of situational issues can all affect our judgements. But in end I like what I like. I do think both bottles are worth trying for those with curiosity. :)

Salil, not sure. I already had some, that lot was refilling, and I didn't note if there were auction stickers on this bottle.

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