WTN: Godello

Exploring the Godello grape, mostly found as a varietal wine in Galicia, Spain:

2010 Pazo de Monterrey, Godello, Monterrei DO:
LIght color without much nose. Lime, white pepper, dry and a bit grassy. This one is rather short and simple. Not bad, but nothing to get excited about. $12, 12.5% abv, plastic cork. Prefer Vina Godeval in this price range.

2006 Guitian, Godello Sobre lias, Valdeorras DO:
This is more like it! From Bodegas la Tapada, one of the more noted Godello producers, this one sees 8 months on the fine lees, in stainless (no oak). More golden than the above, with some green highlights. Lovely aromatics, with a creamy green lemongrass nose. More of the same on the palate, with some lime and hot tar, minerals; oily. Great body, the lees aging is apparent and really complements the fruit. 12.5% abv, $21.

Zippo choice for Godello up here Joe. What is it close to, Pinot Gris?

Zippo choice for Godello up here Joe. What is it close to, Pinot Gris?

Not Joe, but me! That Guitian sounds very much like the fine Valdeorras Godello which I have enjoyed from Palcios and Valdelsil. IMO standard Pinot Grigio is not a bit like it; Pinot Gris from Alsace without the nearly ubiquitous sweetness might be closer but not really it. I always regard these Godello derived wines as Chardonnay substitutes and not the frequent New World goop but Chard from the Mâconnais or Côte Chalonnaise. While the fruit profile is somewhat different there is a roundness and creaminess which make them useful in the same gastronomic slot.

What do you think, Joe?

What Tim says is quite accurate, IMO. The only thing I might add is that it has some of the aromatics one might find in Alvarinho or even Sauvignon Blanc, much more so than Chardonnay or Pinot Gris. But, when done on the lees, it gets the creamy body we associate with some Chardonnay; it also can show some of the oily richness found in some Pinot Gris.

Bob: Since I know you drink some Douro whites, you have probably had some Godello, often found in the mix as Gouveio. For some reason the Portuguese don't make varietal wines from this grape, but across the border in Spain it is common.