2009 Ema's Vineyard, Paulo Laureano Vinus, Vinho Regional Alentejano (Portugal):
Paulo Laureano is a well known consulting enologist mainly in the southern part (Alentejo) of Portugal, which is considered the 'new world' of that country. In recent years he has acquired some older vineyards around Vidigueira and is putting out wines under his own label. He has a particular affection for Alicante Bouschet, which is an honorary Portuguese grape, after being exiled from France.
I thought it might be worth trying some of his wines after being served a few glasses of his 2010 "Classico" in a Newark Portuguese restaurant. Here was a very nicely balance wine, with grippy tannins (Aragonez(Tempranillo)/Alfrocherio/Trincadeira blend) which can be had for a paltry $7/bottle in the shops. Came across this bottling and was curious about its makeup: 40% Aragonez, 30% Tinta Grossa, 20% Trincadeira, 10% Alicante Bouschet. It was the Tinta Grossa that intrigued: this is an almost extinct grape found among the old vineyards around Vidigueira.
The wine is medium/dark carmine, slightly hazy. lightly leathery on the nose, a bit of hotness. Big on the palate, with slightly lifted plum/raspberry, black olives, tongue curling tannins and acidity. A bit earthy, rough and rambunctious. Don't know what role the Tinta Grossa plays in all this - overall it reminds me a bit of a young St. Joseph. Would be interesting to age a few bottles of this. This particular wine does not get mentioned on the Laureano website, but neither do his single variety Tinta Grossa or Alicante bottlings, which I am now curious to try. 14.5% abv, $12.

