WTN: The Dorks of York taste old Barolo

[Jenise]

An emergency session of the Dorks was called last week to rally around one of our members who was recently found to have some kind of head tumor for which radiation is going to start Monday. He could lose his taste buds--what a devastating thought. He provided all the wines; all were purchased at Chambers St. about two years ago.

1964 Francesco Rinaldi and Figli: a bit cloudy, brownish, earthy, dried fruit with a balsamic top note on the acids. Tired but putting up a good fight, and quite enjoyable.

1961 Oddero: Light ruby red, clearer than the Rinaldi, with classic tar and roses. Delightful.

1967 Oddero: Smack between the first two, browner, smokier and earthier than the '61 but with more youthfulness than the '64. Very good.

1974 Ceretto Bruate: Smokey, loamy, with shitake mushroom, cranberry and plum. More structure than the 60's wines, very complete. Excellent plus.

1978 Ceretto Barbaresco (I did not get the vineyard name, but I believe it started with an 'A'): very pale with cider and raisins which turn into sherry on the nose, dries out real fast. Over the hill, though my husband the sherry drinker loved it.

2007 Corsini Barolo: Very accessible for so young a wine, a factor of the vintage I suppose, with plum and black olives notes. Rustic style, fun.

Then for dessert, with a plain spice cake loaded with fresh ginger:

NV Vergano Barolo Chinato, a Louis Dressner import: Anise, menthol, absynthe, hotel soap, nutmeg, strong medicinal herbs. My first Chinato, and it will most likely be my last but for the next report.

NV Cappellano Barolo Chinato: an initial white chocolate nose turned into those little rectangular Andes mints with grenadine liqueur and mild herbs. Sweeter than the Vergano, but also lighter and my preference between the two. Can't say I would to drink it again, though!

Jenise
Probably the 'Asili' vineyard for the Ceretto Barbaresco - I'm pretty sure they have vines there.

But more importantly, best wishes to your friend and their treatment. Just remind them that there is more nebbiolo to be enjoyed post recovery.

regards
Ian
p.s. Barolo Chinato is a real love it or hate it wine, though its appeal seems to increase on subsequent tastings - I think because many of the flavours (bitter, medicinal, etc.) are flavours we've been brought up to dislike. I like it, but I also like the soft drink Chinotto which has some of the quinine bitterness.

[Jenise]

Jenise
Probably the 'Asili' vineyard for the Ceretto Barbaresco - I'm pretty sure they have vines there.

But more importantly, best wishes to your friend and their treatment. Just remind them that there is more nebbiolo to be enjoyed post recovery.

regards
Ian
p.s. Barolo Chinato is a real love it or hate it wine, though its appeal seems to increase on subsequent tastings - I think because many of the flavours (bitter, medicinal, etc.) are flavours we've been brought up to dislike. I like it, but I also like the soft drink Chinotto which has some of the quinine bitterness.

Yes, I considered Asili as I've owned wines from there. Wasn't sure which other vineyards might also have been candidates, though. I'm pretty spotty on my barolo/barbaresco knowledge.

Thanks re my friend. Our poor little group of 7 has been decimated--another member died three weeks ago today, which made last week's emergency session all the greater an emergency. We're reeling from all this.

I'm not sure Chinato could ever appeal to me. I can see becoming less reviled simply because I now know what to expect, but actually moving over to 'like'? Can't imagine it. Ever use a throat spray/medication called Chloroseptic? Don't know if you'd have it over there or not, but I was once given that and it only took one dose to decide that I'd prefer extreme discomfort and outright pain to a lingering bad taste. The Chinato and a few other other libations including a particularly awful Hungarian liqueur which they have at breakfast as a digestif to start out the day, I've tasted over the years have reminded me of that. Do you know the origins, btw? I don't, I know it's fortified but have no idea what it's original design/purpose was.

Hi Jenise -

Thank you for the highly interesting report. I'm sorry to hear about your friend as well - hope their treatment goes well.

Anyway, I'd love to have a chance to try some pre-1980s Baroli/Barbareschi sometime - you were quite lucky in that regard!
As for the Barolo Chinati - I've only had one from Cocchi, and liked it, albeit not enough to buy a bottle. From what I've heard from a number of people, the Capellanno is supposed to be the best, although it is quite expensive. I did also kind of like the Vergano Americano (think it is based on Grignolino rather than Nebbiolo), but definitely not enough to buy a 500 ml bottle for about $40-$50.