by Dale Williams » Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:34 am
Our little Bordeaux-centric group met last night at Riverpark for a look at some 1982s at 30 years. This episode was to focus on midtier Medocs. Restaurant did a nice job (weather was so nice we almost asked to move outside, but we like "our" table). Great oyster tacos, good charcuterie, some cheese empanadas, I has fettucine with lamb ragu and a Berkshire pork chop with Brussels sprouts.
Starter was the 1998 Billecarte Salmon "Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon" Brut Rose. Good crispness, full, red fruit and citrus zest, chalk, fresh baked bread, I enjoyed a lot. A-
Next up was a 2006 Cotat (neglected to note which, but immaterial) "La Grande Cote" Sancerre that was quite corked, too bad.
Since we wanted white with some starters, we ordered the 2007 Fontaine-Gagnard "Les Vergers" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Good acids, but lots of toasty oak, rather too much for me at moment, will it integrate or premOx first? B-
On to the reds:
1st St Julien flight
1982 Branaire Ducru- really tattered label, but I've had good bottles (of other claret) from same source/cellar with similar labels that have shown very well. Cork comes out in good shape, double-decanted before train travel. Animal funk on the nose, subdued dark fruit, a little underlying metallic thing. I don't love, but like better later in evening when it shows more 1982 sweet fruit. But still have never had a bottle of this that compares to ones served blind at a BWE event circa 2004. B/B- when served.
1982 Beychevelle- also a slightly funky nose, though this is more horse meets forest floor. Midbodied, elegant, but maybe a tad short, not the best bottle I have had of this, but good. B
2nd St Julien flight
1982 Ducru Beaucaillou - My WOTN, thanks Paul. Meaty, full, solid dark fruits, cigarbox, just a lovely mature Bordeaux with plenty of time left. A-
1982 Leoville las Cases- tough, muscular, a bit stern, others liked more than me, and some felt just needed time, but I find this more impressive than friendly (which has been my reaction each time I taste). B/B+
Mixed flight (St Julien and Pauillac)
1982 Gruaud Larose - corked, arrrggghh, as I anticipated this being contender for WOTN
1982 Grand Puy Lacoste- rich cassis fruit, smoke and cigarbox, good length, very fine. A-/B+
St Estephe flight
1982 Calon Segur- full, a bit stern with some remaining tannin, but good length and opens in glass. B+
1982 Montrose- a bit of barnyard funk, meaty, dark fruits, good but not compelling. B/B+
Fun night with a good group.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.