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TN: 1982 Left Bank at Riverpark

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Dale Williams

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TN: 1982 Left Bank at Riverpark

by Dale Williams » Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:34 am

Our little Bordeaux-centric group met last night at Riverpark for a look at some 1982s at 30 years. This episode was to focus on midtier Medocs. Restaurant did a nice job (weather was so nice we almost asked to move outside, but we like "our" table). Great oyster tacos, good charcuterie, some cheese empanadas, I has fettucine with lamb ragu and a Berkshire pork chop with Brussels sprouts.

Starter was the 1998 Billecarte Salmon "Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon" Brut Rose. Good crispness, full, red fruit and citrus zest, chalk, fresh baked bread, I enjoyed a lot. A-

Next up was a 2006 Cotat (neglected to note which, but immaterial) "La Grande Cote" Sancerre that was quite corked, too bad.

Since we wanted white with some starters, we ordered the 2007 Fontaine-Gagnard "Les Vergers" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Good acids, but lots of toasty oak, rather too much for me at moment, will it integrate or premOx first? B-

On to the reds:

1st St Julien flight
1982 Branaire Ducru- really tattered label, but I've had good bottles (of other claret) from same source/cellar with similar labels that have shown very well. Cork comes out in good shape, double-decanted before train travel. Animal funk on the nose, subdued dark fruit, a little underlying metallic thing. I don't love, but like better later in evening when it shows more 1982 sweet fruit. But still have never had a bottle of this that compares to ones served blind at a BWE event circa 2004. B/B- when served.

1982 Beychevelle- also a slightly funky nose, though this is more horse meets forest floor. Midbodied, elegant, but maybe a tad short, not the best bottle I have had of this, but good. B

2nd St Julien flight
1982 Ducru Beaucaillou - My WOTN, thanks Paul. Meaty, full, solid dark fruits, cigarbox, just a lovely mature Bordeaux with plenty of time left. A-

1982 Leoville las Cases- tough, muscular, a bit stern, others liked more than me, and some felt just needed time, but I find this more impressive than friendly (which has been my reaction each time I taste). B/B+

Mixed flight (St Julien and Pauillac)
1982 Gruaud Larose - corked, arrrggghh, as I anticipated this being contender for WOTN

1982 Grand Puy Lacoste- rich cassis fruit, smoke and cigarbox, good length, very fine. A-/B+

St Estephe flight
1982 Calon Segur- full, a bit stern with some remaining tannin, but good length and opens in glass. B+

1982 Montrose- a bit of barnyard funk, meaty, dark fruits, good but not compelling. B/B+

Fun night with a good group.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Matt Richman

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Re: TN: 1982 Left Bank at Riverpark

by Matt Richman » Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:11 pm

Sounds like I missed a good one!

I knew I shouldn't have moved to New Zealand for a year ending in 2.
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Dale Williams

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Re: TN: 1982 Left Bank at Riverpark

by Dale Williams » Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:18 pm

Matt Richman wrote:Sounds like I missed a good one!

I knew I shouldn't have moved to New Zealand for a year ending in 2.


Plus you're missing out on our 1972 and 1992 retrospectives!
Seriously, we're doing RB later this year, can't you arrange a quick trip back (tell Kristin it's a business trip)?
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Mark Lipton

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Re: TN: 1982 Left Bank at Riverpark

by Mark Lipton » Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:06 am

Dale,
Your selection of wines seems to overrepresent St. Julien among mid-tier wines from the Medoc. Any reason for this that you can think of? Just random chance?

Mark Lipton
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Dale Williams

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Re: TN: 1982 Left Bank at Riverpark

by Dale Williams » Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:18 am

Chance- at this point no one in our groups has dozens of choices.
But I think (without counting) that St Julien is probably the largest (in terms of respected classified estates) of the Northern Medoc AOCs. Margaux probably has the most classified estates overall, but comparatively underperformed in '82 (I can't think of a Margaux estate I don't prefer the '83 of, and that includes Ch. Margaux), so don't think anyone owned any or at least that they felt that was best they could offer. And Pauillac is of course home to 3 Firsts, and we specifically had specified "midtier" so those of us bringing wines that retail for $100-300 didn't come across as pikers (Pauillac also had Pichon-Lalande, probably a $600 wine these days).
In my case I had 3 choices for RB, but on Medoc only had 2 that I felt were "midtier"*, and Bill declared Beychevelle first so I said Branaire-Ducru.

*we're probably going to do a "cheapie '82" dinner at some point, where I have more choices- lots of cheap 82s were very good, but most fading now.

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