WTN: When the Mountain met the Marquis

[Jenise]

Between October and March, the sun sets south of the ridge line west of me and we get the most amazing sunsets. In three years we have not tired of, nor will we ever, grabbing a glass of wine to run outside and cuddle on the bear bench while watching the sun dip behind the Canadian Gulf Islands to the west and the rose afterglow on snowy, 11,000 ft. Mt. Baker to the east.

This usually requires white wine because the chill turns red wines hard and tannic. The 2003 Blue Mountain cream label chardonnay was last night's choice. Simply put, this is one of the best New World chardonnays I've ever had. For one, it's not a fruit bomb. The fruit is very light yellow, a lovely blend of red and green apple flavors with sunny Meyer lemon, and it's impeccably balanced with acidity and minerality. Typical of the cream label there's virtually no oak showing, and it's just ripe enough but not one iota overripe--a cheese flavor from overripeness plagues many of the Okanagan's chardonnays. This is what New World chardonnay can be and most people understand is possible--I should buy this wine by the case.

Once the show was over, we repaired inside and poured the 99 Clos du Marquis from Bordeaux's St. Julien commune. It had been decantered about an hour before, and I chose it because an herby cab-based red was needed to pair with blue cheese enchiladas in a white green chile/cilantro sauce. I probably would have chosen a Loire Cab Franc for the job first, but I was so miffed over the defection of the 99 Gloria over the weekend that I needed some assurance that my 99 Bordeauxs weren't all tanking. They're not. This wine is drinking perfectly right now and is probably within range of peak but not there and perhaps years away.

while watching the sun dip behind the Canadian Gulf Islands to the west and the rose afterglow on snowy, 11,000 ft. Mt. Baker to the east.

I know what you mean, one of our favorite things about being here. It sure went from Indian summer to winter in a hurry this year.

Can the Blue Mountain wines be found anywhere besides the winery? I've never had much luck buying them in retail stores. Of course, you are probably in Vancouver more often than me.

One other thing intrigued me about your post. Lately when we make Mexican food, I've been trying to match the wine more with the sauce, so I would have opened something like a Sauvignon Blanc with the green chile cilantro sauce. It wouldn't have occured to me to try a cab based wine, sounds interesting.

[Jenise]

You're right about the weather, this is an amazing turnabout.

Blue Mountain wines are hard to get here. But actually, some show up at retail in the Seattle area where none show up ever in Vancouver I'm told. Zero. On this side of the border, I purchased some pinot gris once at Seattle's Central Market, and bubbly at the Whole Foods in Bellevue last Christmas. Most of what I have I bought via mailing list direct from the winery. And that's a pretty dynamic situation--they sell each wine by individual email, and within hours they sell out. I was lucky this past year to buy four bottles of the reserve pinot noir. I responded within like five minutes and got my four, but about an hour I decided I should have bought more so I tried to up my purchase to six. Too late. That's why it's not available at retail--there isn't enough to go around. How any ever makes it's way into the States for retail I can't understand.

You say you haven't had 'much' luck, which could imply you've had some. If so, count yourself fortunate indeed.

Re the enchiladas, yes, by all means match the sauce. And yes Sauv Blanc is a natural for this, but that's why I went with the Bordeaux. I was intrigued with the enchiladas as a red wine pairing--there's nothing about herbs, green chile and bechamel sauce the wine wouldn't like as long as the green chile wasn't overpowering. It wasn't one of those rare matches made in heaven, but I was on the right track thinking cabernet and it was a good pairing.

Much of the Blue Mountain wine must just end up in restaurants. The one bottle I've found was a Pinot Gris from a California retailer. The way you describe how the wine disapears from the mailing list rivals some of the cult wines from California.

Jenise... you still haven't tried an Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay.. 2000 is outstanding. I haven't popped anything younger, cuz they are, well, too young.

And the Melville Verna's I find much as you describe the Blue Mountain, and it is available sub-$20. The Melville Inox is also outstanding, but in the high $20s range.

Both the Arcadian and Melville Chards have got me trying CA Chards and not just poo-pooing them from the get go. We had the 2005 Miner last night and it was very good too, but below both of the others in what I like.

[Jenise]

Marc, from what I understand Blue Mountain is indeed like that, the only difference is it's 100% opposite in style. Or to put it another way, if Steve Edmunds moved to Canada, he'd be a rock star.

Jim, no, haven't had the Arcadian Sleepy Hollow chardonnay yet, though on your recommendation I picked up an 01. When do you think that will be ready to drink? I've had some Melville chardonnays and I can see why you saw that in my notes--good call. I think the Melvilles are a tad sweeter, but that might just have been the vintage I was trying, too.

Jenise... I've had the 01 recently, and it is very good too. But until I can never have another of the 00, it's hard to make the comparison. I think it can be popped without worry. Hope you like it. Good for cuddling by the bay!!

We had the 2005 Miner last night and it was very good too, but below both of the others in what I like.

Jim,

I was wondering what you thought about the Miner Wild Yeast Chardonnay. I tried a bottle about 3 years ago and it was one of the best Cali Chardonnays I can remember. I don't remember the year unfortunately, but it would probably have been what was available the summer of 2003. I think it was pretty expensive, though, around $30 at the time.

Marc...without getting too far off-thread, I've only had the 04 Wild Yeast. To my taste, there was too much oak and not enough fruit. Maybe it needed to age, I don't know, but I didn't like it much. I have definitely liked the regular Chard bottling better.

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