by Ben Rotter » Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:53 am
The typical style of Aussie Chardonnay has changed significantly in style over the last 5-10 years. Perhaps the "new wave" style doesn't get to N.America (or Belgium) much (yet), but it's actually quite difficult to find a big buttery oaky creature in Australia these days! The current tend is for leaner Chardonnays, with higher acidity and less oak (though, to generalise, still plenty of oak and weight by European standards IMO). Malo/MLF is rarer (thus butteriness is less common) and the style shows more gentle lees-influence (if at all). Indigenous fermentation is much more common (a good thing IMO). Tropical fruit flavours aren't as common as they used to be.
Many wine writers and drinkers seem to be praising modern style - especially Aussie (to be expected though) and British. I personally find most of the wines styled in this way to be insipid and uninspiring, often with unbalanced acidity (too high to balance the other components in the wine). As a generalisation, this goes for most of the famous producers: Cullen, Leeuwin, Moss Wood, Pierro, Cape Mentelle (perfect example), Coldsteam Hills, Shaw and Smith, Bindi, Mount Mary, Penfolds Yattarna, even Giaconda (to some extent).... (Eileen Hardy and Petaluma Tiers may be exceptions - bigger and oakier).
I think most Aussie Chard fruit is better suited to a riper style (stone fruit and touches of tropical, though not fully blown tropical fruit salad), tending towards lower acidity, and significant yet not obvious oak. (I think Bannockburn manage to find this middle-road quite well.) That style of Aussie Chardonnay isn't my favourite style of Chardonnay, so it's not a matter of personal preference, it's about the style of wine I think the fruit is best suited to making.
If you haven't tried any of the above producers (recently) then you may be interested to (assuming you have an outdated appreciation of Aussie Chard). Though I'd recommend producers like Thick as Thieves, Tapanappa or Oakridge (not so much because I think they're fantastic as that I think they may enlighten the taster/drinker) over the above for a different experience - and Bannockburn (especially the SRH) over all of the above. Personally, I'd rather drink Burgundy almost any day though!