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WTN: Donnhoff, Allemand, Donnhoff

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Salil

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WTN: Donnhoff, Allemand, Donnhoff

by Salil » Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:08 am

Had David over yesterday for dinner - roasted brussel sprouts, a variation of the porcini braised chicken that Jenise posted a great recipe on some time ago, and morel risotto with three really amazing bottles. Dunno if it was a fruit day or what, but all three wines were absolutely incredible.

2002 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese
The fruit's still juicy and primary ranging from classical apple and citrus flavours to riper peachy and red fruited notes with savoury and minerally accents, but while it still tastes very youthful it has the seamlessness and texture of a wine that's starting to mature - incredibly polished in the mouth with all the flavours coming together into a whole, and persisting with amazing presence and balance.

2008 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot
Obviously very young, but such a compelling wine now that I have no qualms about opening a bottle or two. There's an incredible fragrance that builds with time, combining all sorts of floral, spicy, meaty and pure red fruited elements into a scent that's hard to move away from. There's certainly some tannin on the back end in the mouth, but it's so seamless and elegant that it's barely noticeable, conveying flavour with a sense of lightness and remarkable elegance.

2001 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Auslese
Still don't have words to describe the fragrance here. It's more developed and not as sweet as the Dellchen, with maturing savoury and smoky elements accenting the fresh Riesling fruit, a faint note of botrytis and a remarkable floral/beeswax-like topnote I've not come across before in Donnhoff's Rieslings that makes it absolutely compelling to smell. There's great balance with superb acidity balancing the sweetness and richness here and keeping it very easy to drink, and a great way to end the evening and cap an outstanding trio of wines. Thanks David.
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win_fried

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Re: WTN: Donnhoff, Allemand, Donnhoff

by win_fried » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:16 am

Hi Salil,

thanks for the notes. They leave me with a question :?:
Was there a special match of the food and the wine?
How did the wine perform with the morel risotto.
(I would hardly dare to match a young Cornas with a morel risotto, should I try? :o )

Winfried
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Donnhoff, Allemand, Donnhoff

by Rahsaan » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:58 am

win_fried wrote:(I would hardly dare to match a young Cornas with a morel risotto, should I try? :o )

Winfried


I'll let Salil respond for the particulars of this match, but in general I don't find Allemand to be as fierce/rustic (acidic/tannic) as what you may think of for a young Cornas.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Donnhoff, Allemand, Donnhoff

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:20 pm

Wow, but hard to believe you two only opened three bottles!
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Re: WTN: Donnhoff, Allemand, Donnhoff

by Andrew Bair » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:10 pm

Hi Salil -

Thank you for the interesting notes. Never had a Dönnhoff Leistenberg that wasn't a Kabinett - sounds like a great wine.

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