WTN: La Bota

In an effort to continue my sherry education, I decided to splurge on the following bottles. I had heard and read a number of notes about this producer (although not these specific wines) and concluded that they must do excellent work.
After tasting these wines, I will be far more skeptical of other opinions as I did not care for either of these.

My tastes run to fresher, lighter versions; to wines that are appetizing and charming. As for instance, I recently ate at Nopa and, while waiting for a table, tasted a beautiful Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla that that fit my criteria and made me wish we would be seated sooner.

But these recent purchases I found heavy-handed and tending toward pasada, in the case of the manzanilla, and amontillado, in the case of the fino. They were aggressive and powerful, and well beyond any sense of charm.

Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Manzanilla #22:
15% alcohol and about $40; smells of roasted (and burnt) nut liquor, alcohol and bread dough; acidic in the mouth with an attack so powerfully (and overwhelmingly) flavored that I catch myself wanting to spit it out; finished with a burn and a sourness I had not anticipated. No hint of salinity or sea air.
Perhaps, if I add an equal quantity of water . . .

Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Fino #24:
15.6% alcohol and about $60; much nicer on the nose than the above wine but tending still toward warm nuts; a bit thin in the mouth (which at this point is a relief) but chunky and in pieces, at times it seems to strain at freshness but eventually devolves into a listless, oxidized, old-fruit quality; finishes in a feeble and somewhat leaden manner.

It appears that I will continue to be a “cheap date.”
Best, Jim

My friends David and Jill opened up my eyes about sherry wines a few years ago at a tasting they hosted. Prior to this tasting I always thought of Sherries as “sippers” or “stand alone” wines (not really meant for the table). (Maybe because in the “back of my mind” I always associated Sherries with “cooking wines”. Wines historically enjoyed by the likes of Christopher Columbus and Shakespeare). For the most part I found what you exactly described- a nutty, figgy, “thick” liquor-like character.
Today however some producers are making Sherries that are more “food-friendly” (more “New World”). They go well with “light” spicy meals and “salty” appetizers. I find them “lighter-bodied” in texture with good vibrancy and crispness (well balanced acidity) with hints of things like apples and olives. I could find these in my neck of the woods for $20 (Byass, Emilio Lustau, Osborne just to name some). (There is absolutely nothing wrong with being “a cheap date” when it comes to Sherries).

Salute

Thank you, Victor.
Those lighter, food friendly sherries are so appetizing and fresh that my eyes are closed to heavier versions (although, an occasional PX is good after dinner). Perhaps, one day I will learn the joys of the more concentrated and intense versions.
Just not right away.
Best, Jim