Côte-Rôtie 1997- Domaine Clusel-Roch – Alc.12%. Unlike some people, I am a fan of this vintage in northern Rhône and this was another good example. Text book aromas and steely and slightly meaty cherry, medium body, savoury character, good mouth-fill and length and slightly stronger tannic shoulders than in some 97s but still elegant; 16.5/20+.
Beaumes de Venise Terres Blanches 2010 – Domaine de Fenouillet – Alc.14% - (c.€9), made from Grenache 60%, Syrah, 30% and Mourvèdre 10%, showed nice round and peppery red fruit, lively acidity, mineral touches and some tannic structure. IMO a model modestly priced southern Rhône; 15.5/20++++ QPR.
Côtes du Rhône Chèvrefeuilles 2010 – Domaine de Réméjeanne – Alc.14% - (c.€9), made from young vines of Grenache 40%, Syrah 20%, Mourevèdre 10% and old vines of Carignan 10%, Cinsault 10% and Marsellan 10% was another model modestly priced CDR. There was lovely pure tangy fruit impregnated with damson, some spice and mineral touches, lively acidity and nice grip on the finish; perhaps less “important” but showing more gaiety than the previous; 15.5/20++++ QPR.
Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2004 – Dönnhoff – Alc.8% was fuller, creamier and rather sweeter than my ideal for Kabinett but was balanced by some lovely mouth-watering acidity and minerality as well as floral aromas and spice infused white fruit; very nice but a touch overblown and trivial seeming with this pairing (plainly prepared trout); 16/20.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Clos de la Boudriotte 1996 (R) – Domaine Ramonet – Alc.13.5%. These bottles have proved a very satisfactory purchase after some 10 years ageing. Like its predecessor this one was medium/light bodied with some ethereal and complex pinot fruit, minerals and lively but non-aggressive 1996 acidity and decent length. Still quite young seeming and overall an elegant Burg; 16/20+.
Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Mont Avril 2009 – Domaine Michel Goubert & fils – Alc.12.5% - (c.€7). This was a remarkably lucky dip at a nearby Carrefour supermarket and not a long way inferior to the previous. It was medium bodied and had some attractively round pinot fruit impregnated with cherry and an attractive funkiness together with decent acidity and tannic structure supporting the finish. I have bought some more bottles; 15.5/20 QPR!
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault 1996 – Domaine Grange des Pères – Alc.13.8% made from Syrah 40%, Mourvèdre 40%, CabSauv 20% and bottled without filtering.
Like the previous ones, this bottle had something quite Musar-like albeit fuller bodied and more powerful. There was a similar discreet lacing of barnyard and VA, which did not dominate but which together added a layer of dark complexity and elegant brightness. As well as this there were complex aromas of plum, cherry, white flowers, some violet and cedar with good depth, full body, freshness and length. The overall impression was a seductive combination of power and lively elegance. A Languedoc classic; 17/20+.