WTN: The beauty of mature Chablis

I first discovered the charms of mature Chablis when, on a visit in the late 90, the elderly vigneron (M. Boudin of Dom. Chantemerle) said "let me show you something" and pulled out a bottle of Fourchaume 1979. We were enchanted by its elegant subtlety and complex fine flavours and aromas. No longer a Chablis to complement oysters crisply, of course, but still a wonderful pairing for sole or trout with perhaps a lightish sauce.

In the quest of similar sensations at home, I decided to hold back about half a dozen of his Fourchaume 96 (of which at least one has proved to be badly poxed) and to buy some others from Gérard Duplessis who then used to specialise in older vintages. I took away from there half a dozen each of Fourchaume 1990, about which there is an enthusiastic TN in the archive, and of Montée de Tonnerre 1988 which is the subject of today's TN. There was some bottle variation, of course, but at best, including this bottle, they showed what mature Chablis is all about. And, BTW, there has been no trace of pox on any this dozen of which this was the last bottle.

Chablis 1er cru Montée de Tonnerre 1988 - Caves Duplessis – Alc.12.5%. The nose showed an intriguing mix of gentle citrus and honey; the medium/light palate added to these notes quite strong minerality, some underlying "gras" and lively acidity with still some grip on the decently long finish. This bottle was livelier and much better focussed than my memory and notes of the previous which I thought was showing signs of beginning to break up. An excellent final act from a good series; 17/20.

thanks. I too really love mature Chablis, it's too bad that these days I open 2004s and 2005s with trepidation

[David M. Bueker]

Indeed, I am largely off Chablis, except for a few bottles here and there for near term drinking.

Indeed, I am largely off Chablis, except for a few bottles here and there for near term drinking.

Agreed.
I used to buy the premier and even some grand cru stuff but the prices now being charged and the premox issue have made that a thing of the past.
But I do still love my village wines and find them so vastly superior to any other Chardonnay that they are all of the variety I ever buy. And 2010 seems to be the year for village Chablis.
Best, Jim

You really think premox is as rampant in Chablis as down south in the Cote?

You really think premox is as rampant in Chablis as down south in the Cote?

'Don't know.
But once is enough, yes?
Best, Jim

You really think premox is as rampant in Chablis as down south in the Cote?

After having several PremOx'd bottles of Dauvissat's 2004 Chablis (duly recorded on the Oxidised Burgs wiki) I became gunshy as well. I don't indulge in other White Burgundy to be able to assess relative frequencies of occurrence.

Mark Lipton

i just can't get into most older whites - esp. chablis. chablis as a group is a go to wine for me. i have a lot of it; but i'm drinking up my '09's now and enjoying a few '10s as well.

trying to philosophize about all this: 50 years ago before stainless and temp control, most white wines came to the market as what we would call moderatly mature wines today - shipping was also more problematic. so the difference between young and old versions was less than it is today; and many people saw that more developed flavor as the standard. back then i didn't drink as much white wine - maybe for that reason. now i do; and it MUST be fresh and clean for the most part. i forgive some older oak aged wines and many sweeter wines; but not generally speaking, dry unoaked ones.

i just can't get into most older whites - esp. chablis. chablis as a group is a go to wine for me. i have a lot of it; but i'm drinking up my '09's now and enjoying a few '10s as well.

trying to philosophize about all this: 50 years ago before stainless and temp control, most white wines came to the market as what we would call moderatly mature wines today - shipping was also more problematic. so the difference between young and old versions was less than it is today; and many people saw that more developed flavor as the standard. back then i didn't drink as much white wine - maybe for that reason. now i do; and it MUST be fresh and clean for the most part. i forgive some older oak aged wines and many sweeter wines; but not generally speaking, dry unoaked ones.

I love good examples of both young and old Chablis, though they are very different. On the previous occasion I opened a Duplessis Montée de Tonnerre 88, it came after a vibrant M de T 07 from W.Fèvre, which accentuated the tired and disjointed impression given by an admittedly less well preserved bottle of the 88.

As other people have pointed out, premox has become too big a risk and I no longer age any white Burgs beyond about 5 years. This means that I no longer buy the big names from the Côte d'Or because IMO their high price is only justified by what they can become from about their 10th year and many are too oaky in their youth. Neither stricture applies Chablis from well chosen producers.