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WTN: 1997 Spoof-fest of Tuscan Zombies

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Saina

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WTN: 1997 Spoof-fest of Tuscan Zombies

by Saina » Thu Jan 26, 2012 5:24 pm

A friend of mine kindly invited a small group to try out a dozen 1997 Tuscans. Sadly few were to my taste and most had not aged well.

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 1997 (label) was pretty well dead with a meaty, rye-bread aroma; hollow, tannic and lifeless.

Frescobaldi Motesodi 1997 (label) was pretty similar to the Fonterutoli except the flesh hadn't completely decayed from the bones yet.

Antinori CC Riserva Badia a Passignano 1997 (label) was alive! And this was actually pretty good. A nice, lively red fruited aroma, a very ripe style of Sangiovese but recognizable as the grape. Fleshy and obviously a warm year style but this has aged well and had a lovely tannins, though was a bit low in acidity, so it was refreshing despite all the ripeness. Good stuff.

Villa Cafaggio San Martino 1997 (label) was a dead, hollow, tannic shell.

Isole e Olena Cepparello 1997 (label) was pretty similar to the Cafaggio in seeming dull and lifeless aromatically; the palate did have a bit of flesh clinging to it, however. Still pretty well zombified.

Felsina Fontalloro 1997 (label) was a fleshy, red fruited wine that has aged well (but I wouldn't keep it any longer). A ripe style, sweet, low acid, good tannins. Not great, but certainly not something to spit away in disgust. Decent wine.

After a corked Vigorello we moved onto Antinori Tignanello 1997 (label) which was alive! And a perfectly decent wine where the new oak has integrated. But it is a big, fleshy, ripe wine. Rich and sweet. Nice enough; this was the only wine which I felt could use more age.

Ruffino Cabreo il Borgo 1997 (label) was alive and was a very dark toned, fleshy beast. Rather too candied and vulgar and slutty for my tastes.

Frescobaldi Lamaione 1997 (label) was a dark, inky, slightly hollow wine. Some thought it was a bit corked.

Frescobaldi Mormoreto 1997 (label) was alive and kicking. Sweet aromas, candied but with a Cab lift. Too much toffee. Too slutty.

Fontodi Syrah Case Via 1997 (label) was a smoky, dark Syrah, but despite much oak and toffee it had some nice meaty aromas. But still not really to my taste: too thick, sweet and slutty.

Then cleaning up, we had some real wines! :D

Fanny Sabre Bourgogne Rouge 2010 (label) was beautiful. Bright, red, elegant, pure fruit; delightfully light and nervous. Lovely. I hadn't heard of this Domaine before, but I must more of her wines.

Montaribaldi Barolo Borzoni 2006 (label) was pretty nice. Served blind I thought it was a Montepulciano since it had that nutty, red fruit aroma; even when revealed I didn't find it particularly Barolo-like. An easy going, approachable, cheap Barolo.

Podere le Boncie CC "Le Trame" 2008 (label) was its usual lovely self. Wonderful purity and grace and elegance; palate-cleansing structure; outstandingly moreish. Lovely.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: 1997 Spoof-fest of Tuscan Zombies

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:02 am

The name Fanny Sabre rings a bell with me. I think there is a piece about her on the Wine Terroir website?
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: 1997 Spoof-fest of Tuscan Zombies

by David M. Bueker » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:17 am

Otto,

Very few of those 1997 "Super" Tuscans have aged well. Flaccianello and Tignanello have done ok (especially the Flaccianello), but I have had similar experiences with the Cepparello as yours, and dumped a couple of bottles of the Case Via Syrah as well.

I have had much better luck with the regular Chiantis from 1997.
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Re: WTN: 1997 Spoof-fest of Tuscan Zombies

by Tim York » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:53 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Otto,

Very few of those 1997 "Super" Tuscans have aged well. Flaccianello and Tignanello have done ok (especially the Flaccianello), but I have had similar experiences with the Cepparello as yours, and dumped a couple of bottles of the Case Via Syrah as well.

I have had much better luck with the regular Chiantis from 1997.


I think that Otto has been unlucky with his bottle of Fonterutoli 97. I had a very good one, if a touch international, a couple of years ago at an Italian dinner but did prefer on the same occasion bottles of Rancia 1990 and Fontalloro 1995 both of which seemed to have more tangy Tuscan personality, liveliness and complexity.

That said, this thread is a useful reminder to drink up my remaining Tuscan 97s; Fontalloro, Rancia and a Brunello, I think.
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