Hosted my local tasting group at my place last night for a lineup of wines from the Loire Valley along with a (relatively mild) biryani. For the most part the wines showed very well, though I was quite surprised by how heavy and opulent the François Chidaine wines came across in the context of a blind tasting. And I'm becoming more convinced with every bottle I open that Baudry's Croix Boissée is one of the world's truly great red wines.
Starter
2010 Clos Roche Blanche Pineau d'Aunis Touraine Rosé
Quite a change from the last bottle I opened, showing the same fresh berried fruit but with an unusual brothy savouriness I've never come across before in a rosé. Still a touch soft by CRB standards though.
Flight 1: Montlouis
2009 Frantz Saumon Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos de Chênes
Pure, fresh white fruited and a touch of Chenin wooliness on a lightweight frame with bright acids and moderate sweetness keeping it very refreshing, though not showing as much complexity or depth as the last bottle I enjoyed.
2008 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux
Comes across as sweeter and more opulent than the Saumon, conveying ripe Chenin fruit and gentle floral and honeyed accents with a sense of richness and polish. There's a lovely glossy texture here and impressive length, I imagine this is one that'll be really impressive with time.
Flight 2: Vouvray
2008 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition
Much more complex and layered than it was a couple of years ago; a core of fresh apples and citrus fruits accented by delicate floral, honeyed and more savoury wooly elements. Still has the same sense of lightness and delicate touch, particularly in contrast with the Chidaines; lovely. I really should cellar more of the Pinon wines.
2008 François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet
Like the Montlouis Tuffeaux, this comes across quite rich and opulent in contrast to the other Chenin Blancs. Ripe apples and peaches seasoned with honey, flowers and waxy elements with a round, polished mouthfeel. It's not showing as much acidity now as I recollect, and doesn't have the same lightness or delicate touch as the Pinon, but it's still very well balanced and all too easy to drink.
Flight 3: Older Bourgueil and Bordeaux
1996 Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil Breteche
A little austere and tart initially, but really opens with air to show fresh red fruits and cassis flavours seasoned with fresh herbs, cedar and a dusty earthiness. This is quite light on its feet with some fine grained tannins and a bright acid spine that make it really easy to drink. Revisited at the end of the night, and it had really opened aromatically with the fruit deepening and a surprising stony mineral element emerging. I'll give my other bottle a little more time in the cellar.
1983 Château Brane-Cantenac
Decanted this into a Loire/Burg bottle an hour ahead of the tasting and tossed it in for contrast; most of the group pegged it as older Bordeaux straight away. My last bottle and as it turns out, the best showing I've had from this wine. Layers of mature leather, tobacco, spicy and floral elements and red fruits combining together seamlessly in a polished, medium weight package. The tannins are fully resolved and it's drinking superbly right now.
Flight 4: Chinon
2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux
Another great bottle. A core of deep red and dark fruited flavours accented by all sorts of herbal, forestal and savoury earthy notes. Quite complex and nuanced now, but given the stuffing and balance I imagine this will turn into something incredible with time.
2006 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée
Double decanted a few hours before serving. It's still very youthful but already showing incredible complexity and finesse right now, conveying layers of pure dark fruit, floral and green forestal elements and more savoury minerally and earthy notes in a seamless, superbly balanced whole. Truly outstanding wine that just reaffirms for me that Croix Boissée is one of the great red wines, and I can't wait to see what my other bottles turn into with age.
Flight 5: Dessert
1985 Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont
Ripe quince and apple fruit seasoned with honey, wooly funk and a lingering hint of sulfur despite a lengthy decant. There's surprisingly moderate sweetness here, closer to what I'd expect from a demi-sec, and a strange bitter element on the finish. It still feels incredibly youthful and undeveloped though, and I reckon this just needs a lot more time.
Late night extra cellar pull
1991 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert
Not quite on the level of a staggering '90 Thalabert I had a few months ago, but this is damn good all the same. Layers of red and dark fruits that feel surprisingly youthful for a 20 year old Crozes, seasoned with leathery funk, pepper and smoky elements. Drinking very well now with the tannins mostly resolved and great balance, and ridiculous value at about $25.