Domäne Wachau Neuburger Federspiel Terrassen 2010
12% abv; 13,48€; under Stelvin. This was a touch reductive at first and needed an hour of air to show itself. "Neuburger is known for its hazelnut aroma," says the back label. I don't find such nutty aromas, this being an intensely floral wine instead with nice minerality. The fruit veers toward tropical flavours. Quite rich palate despite only 12% abv; fruit forward but with good, citrus acidity and a long, mineral finish. A wine of genuine interest - if this is what the grape can do, it is time for a renaissance of the variety.

