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WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

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Ryan M

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WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Ryan M » Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:10 am

"What the hell?" you might be thinking. But partly by educated guess, partly by good luck, my advisor and I tasted side-by-side two wines that were uncannily similar in many ways, despite one being from an island in the Aegean, and the other being from, well, about as far from that as you can get. But read the notes, and I think you'll see what I mean.

St. James Winery, Cynthiana, Ozark Highlands 2009
Dark ruby-purple. Nose of heady cassis, with blackberry, tart cherry, flowers, fig, and tar. Smells almost exactly like a Cali Merlot. Some rich vegetal undertones. Big and intense on the palate, but also wondefully rich and lush, with notes of tart black cherry, tart blackberry, loads of cassis, plum, and some exotic apricot notes, with hints of flowers, tar, mineral, hints of fig, and some succulent vegetal notes. A savory, almost creamy quality to the fruit. A wonderful wine by any standard, and a screaming-good value at $10. Should age gracefully for at least another 5 years. *** [1/12/12]

Domaine Sigalas, Mavrotrango, Santorini 2008
My first Greek red. Dark ruby. Excellent, dense, heady nose: juicy red fruit, black currant, a hint of roses, ashy mineral (volcanic), and brown spice. Aromatic, and somewhat lovely nose. Similar notes on the palate: tart red currant, hints of ashy rock/mineral (volcanic), flowers, orange rind, and brown spice. Full, almost intense body, huge tannin, very tough and spicy, and yet rich and appealing. Excellent tone, with a bit of pleasant tartness. Perhaps some dark chocolate and fig emerging a bit later. Wonderfully succulent. Oddly enough, this is rather similar to a Barolo. Approachable, but will benefit greatly with time. I like it very much - quite a wonderful introduction to Greek reds. This will improve for at least the next 5 years, and might very well be doing well in 10. **** [1/12/12]

I sampled the following wine, as a bit of an afterthought, toward the end of the evening. Also had a taste of the Glenrothes 1998 (bottled 2010) - an exceptionally nice, rich Single Malt that. I'd say one of my top 10 or so Scotches to date.

Treana, Marsanne-Viognier, Central Coast 2008
On the nose and palate, a personality of ginger, nutmeg, nectar, orange blossom, citrus rind, and ripe, fat, oily fruit: pear, peach, and apricot, with celery, and a hint of stone/mineral. Remarkable wine. 55-45 Marsanne-Viognier. *** [1/12/12]
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Dan Smothergill » Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:30 am

The history of Cynthiana and Norton is told in a recent book by Todd Kliman titled The Wild Wine (NY: Broadway Paperbacks, 2010). It's a story of the search in early America for a wine that tasted like the European wines people were used to, the time when Hermann, Missouri was the capital of American winemaking and the ups and downs in tastes. Prohibition played a predictable part in the demise of Norton/Cynthiana, but Kliman points out that there was more to the story. He also discusses the modern resurgence of interest in the wines, highlighted by adoption of Norton/Cynthiana as the official grape of the State of Missouri.
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:59 am

Paul B is around somewhere!
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TomHill

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Eggsactly...

by TomHill » Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:46 am

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Paul B is around somewhere!


Exactly my thought, Bob. PaulB will go ape-$hit (Kansas colloquialism for "get excited" or "orgasimic")
when he sees this TN. We need to jerk his chain with a Norton/Cynthiana TN every now and then.
Tom
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Paul B. » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:12 pm

Ha ha ha! :mrgreen:

Not going ape-$hit, but excited all the same :lol:

Thanks to Bob for the heads up - and Ryan, for the note. It's great to read TNs on aestivalis wines.

The Domaine Berrien blend of Chelois and Dechaunac that I had not too long ago reminded me a lot of the Missouri Cynthianas that I've tried over the years. There is that deep dark core of funk and weathered-sumac-like colour saturation that are hallmarks of many reds made from grape varieties whose lineage traces to this continent.

The situation hasn't gotten any better in Ontario, for what it's worth: we still have not seen a single aestivalis wine at the LCBO. Maybe 'tis time for another poke and prod by way of a consumer suggestion e-mail :D
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Sam Platt » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:20 pm

Ryan,

My wife and I visited the St. James winery this past summer. We met and spent some time with the wine-maker who is from New Zealand. He is quite a nice guy. We tasted and purchased a number of wine while we were there. The wines are really quite well done and VERY reasonably priced. Frankly, I have avoided posting tasting note for the St. James wines for fear of scorn and ridicule.
Sam

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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Ryan M » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:17 pm

Sam Platt wrote:Ryan,

My wife and I visited the St. James winery this past summer. We met and spent some time with the wine-maker who is from New Zealand. He is quite a nice guy. We tasted and purchased a number of wine while we were there. The wines are really quite well done and VERY reasonably priced. Frankly, I have avoided posting tasting note for the St. James wines for fear of scorn and ridicule.


Hey Sam. This is the first and only wine from St. James I've had, but given, as you say, how well this was done, and how great the prices are, I am very curious to try more. Post away my friend! Paul and I at least will enjoy. How's the Traminette?
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Jan 19, 2012 3:09 am

Go ahead post away.Always interested in wines that stir Paul B`s passion!
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Paul B. » Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:07 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Go ahead post away.Always interested in wines that stir Paul B`s passion!

Speaking of which, I am due to taste our mutual favourite, Bob: the H of P Baco. I saw the 2010 finally rear its head at the local store recently! :P
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Jan 19, 2012 1:07 pm

That reminds me Paul, should we be buying the `09?

Bob
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Paul B. » Thu Jan 19, 2012 1:12 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:That reminds me Paul, should we be buying the `09?

Bob

The 2009 is typical cold-vintage Baco: well pigmented all the same, lithe and tart; brisk across the palate.

Henry of Pelham does well with this variety year in, year out. And Baco can sometimes deceive: what you think was a crappy vintage may still produce a respectable red with everything in the right place.

Having said that, I'm expecting more colour, and more secondary aromatics in the 2010 - based on past experience. Should be interesting!
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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Sam Platt » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:10 am

Ryan Maderak wrote: How's the Traminette?

Here's my brief note:

2009 St. James Traminette

Color: Translucent yellow.
Nose: Muted flower garden with a hint of melted wax.
Taste: Honey and citrus. Some cloying sweetness and a Skittles finish.

I wasn't a big fan of the traminette. It is too similar to the inexpensive Rieslings that I loved, and over bought, when I originally got into wine. I really have a strong aversion to that style now. We gave the last bottle to our neighbor.

I did like their Chambourcin, and Cynthiana. Also, I have never been a big fan of the Norton grape, but St. James Norton is growing on me as I drink it. It needs to be served on the cool side. The Concord Dessert wine is a pretty tasty Port-like wine as well.

The St. James wines do offer a very solid QPR.
Sam

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Re: WTN: similar differences - Missouri vs. Greece

by Ryan M » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:23 am

Sam Platt wrote:I wasn't a big fan of the traminette. It is too similar to the inexpensive Rieslings that I loved, and over bought, when I originally got into wine. I really have a strong aversion to that style now. We gave the last bottle to our neighbor.


I don't really care for semi-dry Traminette either. But there are some bone-dry, Alsatian style ones out there (Stone Hill makes a good one), and those I enjoy a lot.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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(avatar: me next to the WIYN 3.5 meter telescope at Kitt Peak National Observatory)

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