Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo 2000 – Fontodi – Alc. 14% tends to be despised by some Chianti purists because of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend but I love it. This 2000 was exceptional rich and ripe for Chianti with medium/full body and complexity with rich red fruit and English fruit cake touches. It was less tangy and smoother in acidity and structure than in most years but had enough of all to avoid flabbiness and remain a fine wine; 17/20.
Brunello di Montalcino 1997 – Campogiovanni – Alc.13.5% was less charming and hedonistic than the Sorbo and showed more tannic structure with quite full body, ripe fruit, leathery touches and good length. A fine drink though with probably more future; 16.5/20.
Family visitors always demand the traditional Belgian “moules marinières” (mussels) at least once during their stay and once again we were happy to oblige. I chose Rueda 2010 – Herederos del Maqués de Riscal – Alc. 12.5%, made from Verdejo.
Though having less personality than José Pariente’s Rueda, its crisp acidity and slightly perfumed green fruit with a gently salty and bitter aftertaste made an excellent pairing with the mussels; 15/20++ QPR.
I always enjoy the traditional New Year’s Eve dinner of oysters, lobster, cheese and light dessert because it is much more digestible than Christmas fare. As Robin and his family were returning home on the morning of December 31, we brought the meal forward by one day because without their company we would have been too few to enjoy the full spread.
Many crisp and mineral wines go well with oysters, but the most distinguished pairing is Chablis IMO. Chablis 1er cru Montmains 2007- Denis Race (€9,80 at cellar door) is my ideal of young Chablis showing plenty of crisp minerality, backbone, length and juicy white and citrus fruit together with real class making for an absolutely delicious drink; 17/20QPR!!.
There was a clamour for more Chablis so I brought up Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 1996 – Domaine de Chantemerle – Alc.12.5%. The previous bottle having been badly poxed, I have until now avoided my remaining stock but this bottle was perfect. More complex than the Montmain but initially seeming disjointed, it rapidly came into focus showing greater richness, depth and backbone combined with some nutty and steely notes, a lot of flinty and stony minerals and citrus fruit infused with dabs of honey; less good with oysters but fine with lobster; 17/20.
Champagne Bollinger Grande Année 1995 – Alc.12%. I have had a number of disappointments with bottles of Grande Année being over the hill out of my passive cellar. This one, however, was all it should have been. Fine bubble, gently darkening yellow, complex nose with a touch of Bollinger funk and full/medium bodied palate with a lot of rich Pinot fruit, crisp acidity, minerals, nuts and fine backbone and length; 17.5/20.
For cheese and dessert, being surprised to find no tawny port in my cellar, I purchased 10 Years Tawny Port – Sandeman – Alc.20% from a local supermarket. It did the job well with the usual lightish colour and body and fragrant slightly nutty flavours without being close to memories of some tawnies from Taylors and Niepoort, particularly some of the latter’s ethereal colheitas; 15.5/20.
After the meal the chef gets a rest with some friends.
We had a quiet dinner on December 31 itself with some sea bass. Loire Chenin sprang to mind to accompany it and I opened Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu sec 1995 – Huet – Alc. 12% (with Demeter biodynamic certificate).
This was very tight a few years ago and it has certainly opened up but is still not IMO a perfect mature dry Vouvray. Colour was now quite deep amber and the nose released aromas of wax, citrus fruit with quince touches, honey and minerals. The medium bodied palate struck me as somewhat disjointed with burnished notes developing the wax and honey elements from the nose clashing somewhat with the crisp acidity particularly on the finish. The overall impression was of a meaner and shorter wine than the outstanding Le Mont 1996 sec. My disappointment was, however, mainly relative and it was in itself interesting and enjoyable; just 16/20. The traditional Belgian family dish for New Year’s Day is rabbit cooked in a sauce including beer and prunes. A CndP was the obvious choice to pair with this.
Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois 1998 – Domaine de la Mordorée – Alc.14%
proved excellent for the purpose. This was a suave and polished CndP with full/medium body, rich fruit, good ripe tannic structure and decent length showing notes of sweet cherry and plum, touches of chocolate and enough pepper and spice to provide local character. I personally prefer some leather touches and a hint of rusticity as in the Clos des Papes 98 but this was probably a more perfect and more potentially popular wine; 17/20.Another friend was waiting patiently for droppings from the table
and a few minutes later succeeded in stealing a rabbit leg from the saucepan whilst our backs were turned 
.