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WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Bill Spohn » Sat Dec 31, 2011 4:53 pm

Notes from a tasting featuring any wine with significant syrah content.

2004 Alain Voge St. Peray 'Fleur de Crussol’ – I’ve enjoyed this wine several times and this was no different. 100% Marsanne, barrel aged, it has significant colour now, and a nice nose of peach and lemon. Tons of flavour, long and tasty finish.

1993 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeraine – now showing significant lightening of colour, a mature nose of rather claretty fruit with slight antiseptic quality and soft smooth midpalate. Good length. I think RP tasted this from barrel and went on a rave that wasn’t warranted by the bottled wine, but nonetheless, a nice wine on plateau now. That’s OK, I think he also over rated the 1990….

2003 Sandhill Phantom Creek Syrah – without doubt the finest BC syrah I’ve met up with. Sweet fruit and hints of blood (iron) in the nose, lots of stuffing, very good length. I have some of this and of the 2005 I haven’t been into yet.

1995 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz (Barossa) – sweet nose of blackberry and black pepper (who knew?) and a nicely balanced wine. Absence of mint on this one.

2003 Eben Sadie Columella – this syrah/Mourvedre blend from an oddball South African wine maker was excellent, showing a black olive and spice nose, lots of tannin left, but softening since my last tasting of this and very high quality. No rush on this one. Not common and not cheap.

2000 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel – reasonably dark, basically no detectable nose, just good levels of fruit and decent length. Pretty hard to get a reading on it when the nose was totally mute.

1999 Fox Creek JSM (Mclaren Vale) – some may not know that the initials in the name are not those of grape varietals (they must struggle over the ‘J’…) but the initials of the winemaker’s children. In fact it is a blend of cab sauv, shiraz and cab franc. Minty eucalyptus nose defined the origin long before it touched out tongues, and it proved to be sweet in the mouth, medium long and the tannins fairly well resolved. Primarily shiraz. I find this vintage less compelling than the 1998.

2003 Saxenburg Private Collection Syrah – cherry and blackberry in the nose, and a bit of Burgundian funk. Sweet entry, sweet on palate and sweet at the end. A bit one note for me – expect this sort of thing from Australia, but not from the Cape.

1999 Guigal Hermitage – killer instantly recognizable Northern Rhone nose, a bit of a relief after the unremitting parade of sweet syrahs. Berries and meat aromas plus leather hints, and well balanced ending with good lingering after taste. Very good.

1994 Henschke Mt. Edelstone – after bitching about the lack of pure typical syrah, what do I do but haul this out (first one I’ve opened and I thought it might be time to take a reading for future drinking window). Quite dark with minty sweet nose, with chocolate and blackberry. Some heat in the mouth and some mintiness, really nice flavour concentration, and a long, long sweet finish. This is what I look for in Aussie wines!

1989 Schloss Schonborn Erbacher Marcobrunner Auslese – quite a lot of colour in this wine, with reddish highlights, good Riesling nose with dried apricots, fairly decent length, but not, I felt, showing as well as I’d have expected. May have been better a few years ago, but pleasant now.
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Salil

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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Salil » Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:57 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:I think RP tasted this from barrel and went on a rave that wasn’t warranted by the bottled wine

This seems to happen often with Chapoutier. I've had some good bottles and some unremarkable ones, but never come across anything that actually came anywhere close to the hosannas and praise the wines get from a lot of the press.

That 94 Edelstone sounds awesome. Love older Henschke (too bad about the recent wines)... must figure out when I'll open my one remaining bottle of the '93 Cyril.
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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Mark S » Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:38 am

Hi Bill, and Happy New Year to you!

I just popped a Clape St. Peray a couple days ago. I'll get around to posting a note to it later.

I think Chapoutier's praises in the early 1990's were a little premature. The potential has always been there, because they own such great properties, but the reviews (particular from The Bob) got a little ahead of the winemaking, which I think has become better and more nuanced, at least from my limited experience.

One of the best Aussie wines I had and still stays in my mind was a Henschke Edelstone from either the late '80's ...I can't remember the year and I would have to check the alt-food.wine group to find out, but it was truly excellent and something I wish I had more than 1 bottle of. I think I had it around 1996 or so.

thanks for the notes!
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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Bill Spohn » Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:32 pm

Happy new year, guys!

Salil - sorry to hear that Henschke has taken the lowe road to points and sales - they used to be among my favourite producers. I have a sixpack of the 1994 Cyril - do you think it is time to try it yet?

Mark - the 93 drinks well, but like the 90, not up to the praise. I intend to start in on my remaining stash of 93 ( 7 bottles) and smaller amount (3 left) of the 1990. The former won't improve, and I haven't tried the 90 in awhile.

I am a big fan of Hermitage, but my faves have always been Chave (still haven't opened my 95 and 96, but thinking about it) and Jaboulet (found 3 bb of the 79 a couple of days ago while searching for something else and think I better get to it) and am waiting on the 91, though it should be on plateau now.
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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Salil » Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:39 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:Salil - sorry to hear that Henschke has taken the lowe road to points and sales - they used to be among my favourite producers. I have a sixpack of the 1994 Cyril - do you think it is time to try it yet?

I reckon it should be drinking well now, but there shouldn't be any rush to open bottles. There are a lot of well structured wines from that year, but some 94s I've had lately (from Wendouree, Wynns and Mount Mary) have been superb.

Just had a bottle of the 2005 Edelstone last night. Grotesquely overripe and alcoholic, and really not all that different from the cough syrupy glop that some producers are sending to these shores. Really a shame considering what great wines they used to be.
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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Fredrik L » Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:30 am

Salil,
have you tried any of the later Hills of Grace? I ask because I love those and wanted to try some newer Edelstone releases too. Hence, if you dislike the HoGs, I can probably disregard your opinion, but if you like them I might have to be aware before buying too much. :wink:

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L
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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Salil » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:51 am

Haven't tried any HOG unfortunately - well out of my price range.
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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Jenise » Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:46 am

Bill Spohn wrote:Mark - the 93 drinks well, but like the 90, not up to the praise. I intend to start in on my remaining stash of 93 ( 7 bottles) and smaller amount (3 left) of the 1990. The former won't improve, and I haven't tried the 90 in awhile.


The '95 is/was the best Sizeranne from the 90's. Got any?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Chapoutier, Guigal, Henschke, E&E, Fox Syrah

by Bill Spohn » Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:04 am

Nope, no 95.

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