Andrea Oberto, Barolo, 'vigna Rocche', 1996
Bought a small bunch of these on distributor closeout and have never been enamored by them, but this was the best showing yet, which is not saying much. Still austere, cherry bark and pit and freshly dug sassafras root, but not nearly so unforgiving/unfriendly as previous bottles. With additional airtime, a little licorice and mint show up, but there is something missing on the palate. For $20 it is merely okay, for more than that, a disgrace.

