WTN: Part 2 Organic & bioD producers. Are the wines better?

I have been remiss in writing up tardily the second part of my notes on this tasting of organic and biodynamic producers. (Part 1 dealt with M.Guignier (Morgon), Ch. La Colombière (Fronton), Causse Marines (Gaillac) and Huet (Vouvray).)

Like with part 1, all the wines here were exceptionally tasty and characterful, so I ask myself whether this is the result of their being organic/biodynamic. For me the most important aspect is the fact that the use of these methods seems to be a symptom of caring deeply about achieving the best results but I can easily persuade myself that the low use of chemicals in organic agriculture does result in purer wines. However I find it less easy to be convinced that biodynamic methods add a significant plus, notwithstanding the fact that pragmatic and non-dogmatic producers like Noël Pinguet and Olivier Humbrecht find that they do. What do other people here think?

Prices shown are as “discounted” for the tasting, but where I have been able to check I have noticed that they were still at least 10% higher than at the importer. Normal prices at this luxury shop, Rob, are discouragingly high.


Domaine Jean Fournier, Marsannay
This is an organic producer. I liked the pure wines, their unassuming and enthusiastic producer, Laurent Fournier, and the reasonable prices for Burgundy. Unfortunately Marsannay St.Urbain blanc 2009 (€19) was served too cold. I liked Bourgogne rouge 2010 (€14) for its pretty sour cherry aromas and its quite ample palate combining lively fruit, minerals and lively acidity; 15.5/20. Marsannay St.Urbain 2009 (€18) was rounder and deeper but with slightly candied notes which may not please everybody; 15.5/20+. Gevrey-Chambertin 2009 (€29) was much less ready and more austere at present with yet more depth, darker fruit and wood touches needing more digestion; 15/20 now with ++ potential.


Domaine Richaud, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (“CDRVC”)
I have visited this estate and bought there twice in the late 90s with great satisfaction. So it is an old friend. Methods are now organic but prices seem to have seriously inflated (I recall paying approx. €6 for the basic Cairanne). The style at this estate leans towards elegance, quite rare in S.Rhône, whilst that of the other outstanding Cairanne estate, Oratoire St. Martin, leans toward power, less rare in the region.

CDVRC blanc 2008 (€25), from from S.Rhône cocktail including Roussanne, Marsanne and Clairette, was a brilliant Mediterranean white showing a lot of exotic generosity laced with spice and nice touches of funk and enough smooth acidity to avoid sogginess; 16/20. Côtes du Rhône terre des Galets 2010 R (€15) was a fine generic Rhône with nice tangy fruit and smooth texture; 15.5/20++. The basic CDRVC 2010 (€19) showed brighter fruit with raspberry touches, a lot of generosity and elegance; 16/20++. CDRVC L’Ebrescade 2008 (€31) also showed raspberry touches leaning towards jam and was much darker and deeper; 16/20++.


Clos Lapeyre (famille Larrieu), Jurançon
This is another organic estate. When it is like this, Jurançon made from Gros & Petit Manseng and Courbu is IMHO one of the great white wines of the world.
Jurançon sec 2010 (€10) showed a complex and quite exotic nose which contrasted sharply with a crisply acidic palate but floral notes are there which may become more prominent with a little time; 15.5/20. Jurançon sec Vitatge Viehl 2007 (€14) was on a different plane of amplitude and complexity and I have already posted an enthusiastic TN on a bottle opened at home; 17/20+.
I came to Jurançon moelleux 2009 (€14) straight after Huet’s Vouvray Le Mont 1er trie and it seemed rather simplistic by comparison; on its own its tropical fruit with orange touches and smooth acidity would be very enjoyable; 15.5/20. By contrast Jurançon moelleux Magendia 2007 (€19) had nothing to fear from comparison with the Huet; it showed complex aromas including citrus, quince and pineapple and a deep, rich and complex palate balanced by very lively mouth-watering acidity; 17.5/20.


Domaine Catherine et Pierre Breton, Bourgueil

Already posted in the Cabernet franc WF.

organic and biodynamic producers. Tim, have you convinced in-house PO this is the way to go with future wine buying?!

For me the most important aspect is the fact that the use of these methods seems to be a symptom of caring deeply about achieving the best results

Tim, I think you've hit the nail on the head here. In my experience, the best winemakers all show a passionate attention to care and detail and that's what sets them apart. The producers using organic and biodynamic techniques are in effect and to an extent pre-selected for these qualities. Organic and BioD techniques generally require more work, and so it's only the dedicated and passionate producers who even attempt them.

-Paul W.

organic and biodynamic producers. Tim, have you convinced in-house PO this is the way to go with future wine buying?!

I'm working on it, Bob. She certainly believes in organic food and has a positive hatred of tasteless industrially farmed vegetables and fruit found in our supermarkets.