2001 Prager Riesling Smaragd Klaus
Incredibly pure and fresh; the fruit's still very bright and youthful with a solid mineral base beneath and gentle floral, developing smoky and savoury accents. Drinking really well now, but gives the impression there's still lots of time ahead.
1999 Weingut Josef Jamek Riesling Smaragd Ried Klaus
Fully mature with a spectrum of ripe orchard fruits augmented by developed creamy, burnished and smoky elements and a vivid stony minerality. This is in that spot where the fruit, developed flavours and acid structure are combining together into a seamless whole, and it's drinking superbly.
2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbes Vieilles Vignes
Greener than my last experience; there's a prominent celeriac and herbal note here, but it still has that incredibly pure red fruit, that distinctive Truchot leathery/earthy funk, a beautiful perfume (though greener than usual) and a beautiful, almost weightless palate presence.
2007 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg
Remarkably Bordeaux-like in its flavour profile with a core of pure dark fruited and cassis flavours framed by forestal greenness, cedar, dried tobacco and minerally notes, but conveying its flavours with a textural finesse and a lightness of touch that's closer to a great Burgundy. Incredible wine, obviously very youthful but already so complex and layered with remarkable presence and persistence. Wow!