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WTN: Egon Muller, Truchot, Donnhoff and culls

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Salil

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WTN: Egon Muller, Truchot, Donnhoff and culls

by Salil » Sat Dec 03, 2011 10:58 am

Dinner last night at David's place. We drank very, very well over the course of a leisurely evening with some very good Mexican takeout and given the wines, I'm very glad I was staying over.

Started with a couple of culls to test/clear out possibly old/past prime bottles from the cellar. The 2006 Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling was very impressive, showing fresh, pale fruit over a mineral base with gentle floral accents. There's just enough rs in here to keep it from feeling austere, and great balance.

1996 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre went down the sink. Still showed some Gewurz spice and an unusual developed meatiness, but came across incredibly disjointed and unbalanced with candied and plastic-like notes, so we moved on to better things.

David's already posted on the 1994 Horton Norton, but I'll just add that it was excellent with mature red fruits framed by leathery and meaty notes on a polished, medium weight frame. Reminded me of an older Cordier Bordeaux, and was the shocker of the evening for going above and beyond all expectations.

Onto the main event and the first of three incredible wines - the 2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes Vieilles Vignes was freaking amazing. Certainly a touch green, but still showing a remarkable perfume of leathery, floral, savoury and green herbal elements, and a palate presence that's hard to adequately describe - pure cherries, strawberries and that distinctive Truchot earthy funk conveyed with such seamlessness and a lightness of touch, and yet having such presence and persistence.

Whereas the Truchot was all elegance and finesse, the 2009 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese was all about intensity and power. An electric, incredibly intense wine with a spectrum of Riesling fruit ranging from tarter citrus fruits to riper peaches; vivid stony minerality; floral and herbal elements and powerful acidity that keeps it incredibly fresh and vibrant while cutting through the richness and sugar. Obviously very primary and young, but utterly compelling and I'm glad I have a few more to follow over the next few years.

We closed with the 2001 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Auslese, which as David said was stunning; complex, layered, more understated and gentle than the Muller; just wow.

Not too a bad way to start the weekend. :)
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Rainer from CH

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Re: WTN: Egon Muller, Truchot, Donnhoff and culls

by Rainer from CH » Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:52 am

Salil wrote:2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes Vieilles Vignes was freaking amazing. Certainly a touch green, but still showing a remarkable perfume of leathery, floral, savoury and green herbal elements, and a palate presence that's hard to adequately describe - pure cherries, strawberries and that distinctive Truchot earthy funk conveyed with such seamlessness and a lightness of touch, and yet having such presence and persistence.


Hi Salil, your tasting notes give me hope that my red 2004 Burgundies could develop nicely too.

Thanks,
Rainer
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Egon Muller, Truchot, Donnhoff and culls

by David M. Bueker » Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:02 am

Rainer,

The '04s from Truchot have alwasy been a bit of a special case in the vintage. I'm not sure they tell us anything about the other wines.
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Re: WTN: Egon Muller, Truchot, Donnhoff and culls

by Dale Williams » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:58 am

Nice notes, and sounds like a nice evening.
I'm generally a fan of the Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre, but the 1996 has always been a bit of an odd duck with some heat on finish,
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Matthew Latuchie

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Re: WTN: Egon Muller, Truchot, Donnhoff and culls

by Matthew Latuchie » Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:05 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Rainer,

The '04s from Truchot have alwasy been a bit of a special case in the vintage. I'm not sure they tell us anything about the other wines.


David - Agree completely. I've had a couple '04s from Jacky and all have been sublime...my experiences with other producers is decidedly mixed. If you're able to find some 2004 Clos Sorbes from Truchot it's spectacular. Glad that the Aux Combottes showed well for y'all!

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