WTN: First Growth dinner

After a couple of months of planning, we finally got the First Growth dinner going with a dinner to served at Jojo’s wine shop. Everyone was to bring a First Growth but they would be served double blind except for my entry which was Yquem. I felt a little embarrassed that I chose to bring Yquem rather than a red but everyone assured me it was fine and that it definitely qualifies for the dinner.

Krug Grande Cuvee (pre LVMH) – I probably bought this bottle around 1996 and I wasn’t too confident that it was still good but decided to bring it anyway. Jojo opened the bottle and there was an audible pop so that was a good sign. Medium copper/gold. Still vibrant with many fine and persistent bubbles. Unbelievably fresh. Just a touch of an oxidative character on the nose. Complex, deep, many-layered with flavors of tobacco, lemon peel, sweet pastry and brioche. As it developed and warmed up, coffee and later toffee flavors emerged as well. Medium to full bodied. Probably at peak now. Brilliant Champagne. Sadly, I have just one more bottle left.

“Les Tours” Tour Verdots 2007 – I failed to get the appellation but I think Southwest France. Semillon, Sauvignon Gris (according to Richard, who brought the bottle) and Muscadelle. Very round and mouthfilling with lychee and longan notes. Friendly and soft. Quite nice.

Pol Roger 1999 – Forward and crowd-pleasing. Fruit and some candy notes evident. Some smokiness. Youthful. Somewhat abrupt on the finish. Primary at this stage but nothing a little more cellaring can’t fix. Very good.

On to the reds

Wine A – Earthy, a little barnyard. Rather pale color. Some spice, Acidic spine. This definitely has a bit of age on it judging by the color. More Burgundy/Barolo than Bordeaux. I guessed Haut Brion 1983. It was a magnum of Mouton Rothschild 1990. A bit of a shock. Nothing here says Mouton, much less a magnum. This wine isn’t aging too well. Voted #6 or last place.

Wine B – Dark, ripe fruits. Tannic. Young and firm. Not showing a whole lot at this point. I guessed Latour 1994. It was Haut Brion 1994. At least I got the vintage right. Group #3.

Wine C – Dark. Very ripe nose. Lots of extract. Rather lush and soft and all primary fruit. Some coffee coming through at it sits in the glass. Dry finish and great length. A young wine. Latour 1996? Turned out to be Margaux 2002. Group #2

Wine D – Medium garnet. Earthy at first and then sweet fragrance. Beautiful flavor, structure and balance. Everything in the right place. Tobacco smoke and old leather armchairs. Very complex. Soft tannins but with enough structure to keep it from being flabby. A real treat and so easy to drink. Outstanding. Lafite 1989? This was Haut Brion 1990. Group #1.

Wine E – Medium garnet. Rather muted nose. Dusty and with a bitter edge to the flavor. Cedar after some airing. Abrupt finish. Lacks something as it seems a little hollow with some hard edges. I did not like this at all. My guess Margaux 1990. It was Haut Brion 1995. Group #5. This is the second or third time I’ve had this wine in the last 5 years or so and I’ve always found it unimpressive and unyielding.

Wine F – Dark. Good fragrance. Rather modern. Rich and sweet. Plums and blueberries. A bit syrupy in texture. Big wine. Seems young. My guess Mouton Rothschild 1990. It was Margaux 1983. A big surprise to me. Very good but not very Bordeaux-like. Group #4.

Done with the reds, we moved to dessert.

Yquem 1982 – The label on this bottle had deteriorated to the point where the vintage could not be read. I had it listed as 1986 in my inventory but fortunately the cork was branded with the year. Very dark copper. The sweetness has faded but the texture and weight of the wine continue to make an impression. Dried apricots and candied pineapple. Drink it up if you have it.

Yquem 1988 – Jojo was very happy with the #1 showing of his 1990 Haut Brion that he decided to treat us to another great wine – Yquem 1988 from a half bottle. Very young and primary. Sugary sweet. This is a far way from being fully developed. Apricots and honey mostly. No doubt a great wine that has a long life ahead of it.

Too bad there was no Lafite or Latour but I guess the prices of these wines are just too much. Also no Right Bank wines for some reason. It was very difficult to guess which wine was which. In fact, none of my guesses were right although I did get the vintage on one and missed by one year on another.

Oddly, there was no coffee available for the dinner and we ended rather late so we couldn’t think of any nearby restaurant to cap the evening. I suggested we go for some single malt instead and so we ended up at The Distillery where we consumed the better part of a bottle of 16 year old Lagavulin before I called it a night. The others though, stayed behind and judging by some of the facebook posts this morning, it appears they polished off the bottle.

The Haut-Brion 1990 is one of the stars of my "wines to remember" list.

Some surprising results. I know old bottles are incredibly variable, but the 83 Margaux is one of my all time favourite wines (surprisingly the only bottle of Margaux - out of several I've had - that has made me feel it deserves its reputation) and pristine bottles are incredible.

90 Haut Brion just rocks. Though I love Haut Brion, and am a bit dismayed to read your comments on the 95. (Don't have that, but do have some 95 LMHB and hope that shows better...)

Surprised at how tannic/ungiving the 94 HB was; I've enjoyed a few bottles of other 94s from less heralded estates lately (incl. Leoville Barton and Pichon Baron) and they've shown very well.

Salil - agree on the 83 Margaux. The shine is off a lot of other 1983s, which peaked earlier than the 82s, but the Margaux ia a star in that vintage. It will also be one of the longer lived wines.

The only other one (that I have tasted) that would make me really think if I was offered a choice between them, is the 83 Palmer - another great one!

I'm a big fan of a lot of 83s for drinking now though - some are still quite reasonably priced on the secondary market, and I've had some fantastic bottles of 83 Talbot, Gruaud Larose and La Miss recently. Been enjoying a recent auction haul of 83 Brane Cantenac in recent weeks as well; it's not one I intend on keeping around longer but is drinking nicely.

Must try 83 Palmer though... have heard great things, yet to hunt down a bottle.

[David M. Bueker]

That 1995 Haut Brion does not sound right at all. I know it's a tough wine (I've had it three times), but I've never experienced the bitterness, and rather than hollow it seems more like it's coiled up to me.

That 1995 Haut Brion does not sound right at all. I know it's a tough wine (I've had it three times), but I've never experienced the bitterness, and rather than hollow it seems more like it's coiled up to me.

I've had it only twice that I can recall (the first I think was a bit damaged), and the one last night was certainly tight and unyielding to me, even more than all the '95 Ducru Beaucaillous I've had, which I have always found to be super tight.

Best,

N

Wine E – Medium garnet. Rather muted nose. Dusty and with a bitter edge to the flavor. Cedar after some airing. Abrupt finish. Lacks something as it seems a little hollow with some hard edges. I did not like this at all. My guess Margaux 1990. It was Haut Brion 1995. Group #5. This is the second or third time I’ve had this wine in the last 5 years or so and I’ve always found it unimpressive and unyielding.

Hi Jay, I wouldn't give up hope on the 1995 Haut Brion too early.
I have experience it repeatedly as a massive, rich wine with some rustic edges and a very long finish. But I expect it to provide real drinking pleasure in about 10 years only.
In my view it's one of the must successful red Bordeaux in 1995.
Have I been tasting different bottlings than you?
However if 1995 Haut Brion finishes bitter and abruptly it must be a corked bottle.

Best,
Rainer

Hi Jay,

Long time no see!! Do you remember we have had an offline in Manila almost 10(?) years ago :p?

Great to read your great First Growth Dinner, particularly in Manila where not as easy to hold of those wines. The TN of 95 Haut Brion makes me a little worried over my Imperial lying in US.

How are things with you? Yes, i remember the dinner. You brought a 1990 Rauzan Segla if I recall correctly. As others pointed out, maybe there was something wrong with the bottle of Haut Brion I had. Hopefully yours will show better.

If you have an opportunity to visit Manila again, do get in touch and let's see if we can set something up.

I really don't remember what I bought and what we drank :p I now spend my time between Hong Kong and China, let me know if you will be here too