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WTN: Dönnhoff Kabinett, ageing Barolo, Umbian Cab blend

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Tim York

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WTN: Dönnhoff Kabinett, ageing Barolo, Umbian Cab blend

by Tim York » Mon Nov 28, 2011 1:08 pm

Barolo 1995 – Scarzello – Alc.13.5% - started off nicely showing some attractive tar notes infused with spice against a background of dark dry fruit but as the bottle emptied I became more conscious of some dusty dry tannins towards the finish; I will drink my remaining bottle soon; still quite classy though; 15.5/20++.

Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett – 005- 2004 – Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff – Alc.8% - was fuller and rather sweeter than the Mosel Kabinetts which I drink more often but was balanced and made food friendly (trout) by some lovely mouth-watering acidity and minerality as well as floral aromas and spice infused white fruit; 16.5/20.

Rosso dell’Umbria IGT Arquata 2003 – Adanti – Alc.14%, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and franc 45%, Merlot 45% and Barbera 10%. I was much taken with the 2001 a couple of years ago and wrote “it was delicious with deep red and dark fruit, full body, rich velvety texture and firm tannic structure towards the long finish. This is a very classically shaped and elegant wine….17/20+.” I liked this 2003 less, probably due to torrid growing conditions. The fruit was darker and verged on the jammy with liquorice notes, the texture was firmer and the tannins harsher; still worth drinking but we didn’t quite finish the bottle and the remainder will be polished off by Germaine while cooking this evening; 15.5/20.
Tim York

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