One of my favorite events of the year, the annual Beaujolais Bash at Arlequin Wine Merchant in San Francisco. A great chance to familiarize myself with some stunning gamay. Great opportunity to familiarize myself with producers, particularly enthused by eye-opening experiences with P-U-R, Guy Breton, and Michel Tête. Not a good time to pop open those 2009 mags, and a range of experiences with other vintages. Very helpful, very delicious.
First up, the 2009 Julien Sunier Régnie seems reductive at the moment, at least in the nose. More luxurious and peppery rhubarb in the mouth. Seems awkward. A magnum of the 2009 Julien Sunier Fleurie had a rather silent nose, but tasted incredible for me--precision, layered, fluffy and suggestive, but feeling entirely undeveloped. Feels like it needs time. A magnum of the 2009 Julien Sunier Morgon had a hint of beauty on the nose, structure dominates with some faint beauty within. Certainly hard to read, even harder than the Fleurie.
The 2011 P-U-R Beaujolais Noveau was my first introduction to this producer. And what a delicious introduction, this isn't merely good Noveau, this is good wine. Spicy, juicy, explosive goodness. A wine I'd gladly drink, not just one week of the year. The 2010 P-U-R Beaujolais-Villages Trés Vielles Vignes elicited a few differing reactions--I found myself among those who adored the wine. Smells like a sour beer (oddly enough, I shared a bottle of this wine with friends for Thanksgiving and one of my friends noted that it smelled like beer yeast, though I didn't pick it up on that occasion). Plush, juicy and giving, it is very grapey. Very Starburst. I love it as it has that fruit punched together with a waxy chenin-like quality. A very interesting wine. The 2009 P-U-R Morgon Côte du Py was another wine that elicted debate, I found it stinkalicious on the nose, and though the fleeted understated fruit on the palate was lovely (reminded me of sunlight) it lacked a structure or oomph that I was looking for. Nonetheless very interesting.
Back to Noveau, the 2011 Jean Foillard Beaujolais Noveau had a sedentary nose that reminded me of cement, and tasted of raspberry and cherry. Maybe cheerful, but I was kind of bored with it. Solid enough, I guess. The 2008 Guy Breton Régnie had a slight vegetative stink, and solid in the mouth: savory, textured, interesting. The 2010 Guy Breton Régnie was silent and unfinished: drying, ungiving and silent, I couldn't get a read on it at all. The 2010 Guy Breton Morgon Vielles Vignes was a real stunner: it was fun seeing people's facial expression upon their first sniff. Incredible texture, poise, ethereal stuff. A memorable wine among memorable wines.
The 2010 Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon was no sloucher either, more silent on the nose, however. Tart, textured, berried, the layering element suggests that this might be an interesting wine indeed with time. A magnum of the 2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon has that characteristic Lapierre purity. Light and peppery with a touch of fennel, but still hard to read. Needs time. The 2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon MMIX has faint smoke on a very interesting nose, hefty and weight in a good way. Nice stuff.
The 2008 Jean Foillard Fleurie has a fantastic rustic nose, depth and plenty of interest. Taste savory excellence, I love this wine. The 2007 Jean Foillard Fleurie, on the other hand, is earthier, high on acid, really high, feels defined more by its acid than its depth, which surprised me. A magnum of the 2009 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py is all about lightness and brightness, very light on its feet. As with the P-U-R Côte du Py, I guess I appreciate what is there, but I'm in the mood for something darker and more lumbering, weather perhaps? The 2010 Thivin Côte de Brouilly has a phenomenal nose, complex with savory depth, great cooking/food wine. Meant to revisit this one, but neglected to do so. The 2010 Chanrion Côte de Brouilly has a simple, rather deadening nose, and tastes plush and somewhat lipsticky. Not feeling this.
The 2009 Coquelet Beaujolais-Villages seems a bit more bretty on the nose (not sure about that) and tastes simple and filthy--and highly satisfying for that reason. The 2008 Coquelet Chiroubles has a fantastic floral nose, light playful, very tangy with a touch of candy to it. A playful fun wine. The 2010 Terres Dorées Beaujolais L'Ancien is a wine I have loved before and love again: awesome, explosive, expressive, a fun must-have. The 2010 Terres Dorées Fleurie has more candle wax on the nose, taste tender, fantastic fruit, hard to read at the moment, but I am incredibly curious as to how this wine will develop--it caught my fancy, though certainly not for drinking in the near term.
The 2009 Michel Tête Beaujolais-Villages smells like church druing lent, lots of intensity, more aggressive, more spice. Not sure about the aggressive approach here, except that it is so slurpably delicious. Yes please. The 2009 Michel Tête Juliénas has an utterly amazing nose, zippy and spicy with an herbal underbelly. Need to reevaluate this with a bottle. The 2009 Georges Descombes Beaujolais-Villages has a beautiful nose, stark and beautiful, beatiful rainwater. Game, set, match a good wine. The 2009 Georges Descombes Morgon is layered and textured, but hiding. Give it time. The 2009 Georges Descombes Brouilly smells slightly reduced or smoky, not sure which. There is cherried watermelon lipstick. A bit weird at the moment, but still likeable.
The 2010 Roilette Fleurie is vibrant and youthful, but otherwise hard to read (either at the moment or with the state of my palate). The 2009 Roilette Fleurie strikes me as savory, toasty, skin-driven, not feeling this wine at the moment, though the nose and texture are quite entrancing. And it's off to share a memorable dinner with a friend. A great way to spend an evening.
