WTN: Jürgen Leiner - a new name to look out for in the Pfalz

The wine importer from above our bookshop came to ask my opinion a producer he has been thinking of importing. Basing an opinion on tasting just two wines is perhaps silly, but these two were really, really good and I would love to see them in Finland. I don't know much about them except that they are certified lunatics ... sorry, certified Biodynamic. That's not a slight, btw, as by definition adherents of Biodynamics cannot mind being called lunatic.


Weingut Jürgen Leiner Riesling QbA trocken 2010 - Germany, Pfalz
12% abv, comes in a 1 liter bottle. A very floral aroma, pure grapeyness and so akin to Muscat except there is no such sweetness to this wine's aroma. Wonderfully mineral and bracing palate, very citric and refreshing. Moreish. But still quite tight - though a "basic" wine in their range, it could do with more age.


Weingut Jürgen Leiner Grauer Burgunder "Handwerk" 2010 - Germany, Pfalz
12,5% abv. Quite unaromatic at first, it needed several hours for there to be any scent. But when it did start opening up, the aromas were very pure and loveable Pinot Gris aromas of spice and glue and yellow fruits but in a very elegant and mineral way. Crisp and racy but there is also some of the oiliness that I often sense with this grape - but it never becomes heavy. This is a grape I rarely enjoy, but this bottle was outstanding.

Hi Otto,

I know the Leiner family and have really been impressed with Sven Leiner, the young winemaker there (and a hell of a nice guy he is too). He is very dedicated to his cause and makes some fantastic stuff. I find the wines to be very Alsatian in style -richer, creamier, sometimes (like in 2010) he allows the wines to go through MLF (BSA in German) as a natural means to cut acidity. He is a fan of Nikolaihof, Deiss, and Koehler-Ruprecht to name a few (what's not to like?) and I can see parallels to those wineries in his work. Absolutely a winery to watch as he continues to find his way. Interestingly, he also makes a very good Tempranillo in the Südpfalz.

Cheers,
Bill

Bill, thanks for the info! Since you know the family, can you ask about their views on Biodynamics? Are they hardcore believers or do they dislike the "woo" but like the results it causes?

Hi Otto,

I saw Sven in the vineyard today but didn’t have time to chat him up. I do have an open invitation to taste through his 2011s in barrel which I’ll take up as soon as we both have time (at which point I’ll pose your question to him.) What I can tell you is that he has expressed to me that organic farming and minimal manipulation in the cellar are the means by which he feels are the best way to unlock or showcase his terroir, and I think that it is something he deeply believes and not just lip-service. I’ve been impressed with the health of his vines alongside conventional producers during the past two very different vintages (which means that he must be doing something right). Also, he does use the preparations and the biodynamic vortex-spinning machine. I would not be surprised if in the future he was asked to join the VDP, although that is certainly not something he has talked about.

Cheers,
Bill