Well aware of the fact that my friend David (from Switzerland) sadly is not able to publish his hors concours notes so frequently nowadays, I decided to write down some short scribblings from the last weekend we spent together.
Friday night in Gupf, Rehetobel. (Where the food is absolutely top-notch and the rest leaves little to be desired. Drop by if you happen to be passing! The last part was a joke, I am afraid, nobody would be passing Rehetobel, even if they lived to be a million…)
Christmann Idig Riesling 2008 (from Erik)
Not bad for a Pfalz, but a bit short. Decent wine with enough(!) acidity. 89p.
Kühn Schlehdorn 2008 (from Erik)
Very interesting biodynamic (as if that would mean anything) Rheingauer, with which only Leitz could compete. Minerally with decent depth, will age well. 91p+.
FX Pichler Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd 2007 (my contribution)
Victor did not think this a riesling, no doubt because of the Wachau minerality and it being served in the same flight as the two mentioned above. A bottle I had forgotten in the cellar, (I rarely cellar FXs), but which was holding up greatly. 93p(-?).
DRC Romanée-St-Vivant 1999 (from Gupf/Christian)
What a disappointment, nothing really that revealed great domaine and terroir. Decent but way too subtle. David has had this on numerous occassions, and says bottles have behaved differently. No assemblage and mise en bouteille a la main. Lest you forget, Mr de Villaine, when we pay premium money for your prized bottles, this will not do! Sad story, indeed. 91p.
Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin 2001 (from René)
Many – myself included – mistook this wine for the RSV. Lesser vintage, lesser terroir, still so much more serious. One of the best 2001s I have had and developing nicely. Bravo! 94p.
Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes 1993 (from David)
All in all an almost perfect Burgundy: deep, smooth, intense, balanced. If you were looking for something superior, your safest bet would be a great vintage of either RC or LT, and most often that would not be enough either. A great, great bottle! 98p.
Château Lafite 2000 (from Christian)
A wine many had been looking forward to, no wonder. An impressive wine that does not do it for me at all: no soul, no blood and no terroir. Chapoutier goes Pauillac, so to speak. 96p.
Château Latour 2008 (from Erik)
Modern Médocs, aye, aye, aye… At the age of three I consume it with pleasure… I rest my case. Many will be pleased with what they get, though. 95p(+?).
Heitz Martha´s Vineyard 1985 (from Rainer)
A brilliant example of what Cabernet can – and should! – be: a wine where everything is where it should be. Must try to find a magnum from impeccable storage, when I can afford it. This is the best Cabernet I have ever had. Thanks, Rainer! 99p.
Quintarelli Amarone Riserva 1983 (from Remo)
This would have made a beautiful vinaigrette, albeit an expensive one. A bottle which obviously had been misstored at some point in life, (but the store did not care). NR.
Quintarelli Alzero 1995 (from Victor)
Not as serious as the Alzeros of yore, but still a nice, portish dessert wine. Perfect to bring to an off-line! 95p.
Úri Borok Tokají Muskotály 6 Puttonyos 1998 (my contribution)
A declassified AE that continues to age nicely. Taste more like a grape blend than a pure Sarga now, though. 93p.
Szepsy 6 Puttonyos 1997 (my contribution)
A tiny bit too oxidised for me, but yet a very nice drink. 92p.
Úri Borok Eszencia Damejeanne 2000 (my contribution)
Not the best Essencia I have had, but still good enough to put the competition to shame. Why split hairs? 100p.
Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Eiswein 1996 (from Victor)
How on earth could the wine tasted in 1997 turn into this one? The similarities are few and far between. I still love it, though. 97p.
Dal Forno Vigna Seré 2004 ( my contribution)
Extremely young, should not yet have been released in my opinion. Needs a Cabernet glass and lots of air. Will close the gap to the legendary 1997 but never really get there. 96p+.
Saturday night in La Vigna, St Gallen
Greenock Creek Creek Block 2005 (from René)
My God, what a corked bottle! The depth is there, though. Would dearly like to taste a better bottle, as this is the last CB commercialized.
Clarendon Hills Astralis 2005 (joint contribution)
Erik said it was corked, I at first just thought the wine crappy, but it was indeed corked. I do not plan to buy more bottles, though. The material beneath the TCA did not impress me one iota. NR.
Clarendon Hills Astralis 1997 (from Erik)
Still the best vintage of this wine. Harmonious! 96p.
Jasper Hill Georgia´s Paddock 1997 (from David)
I do not drink much Victoria Shiraz. Perhaps I should? This was quite nicely structured. 93p.
Jasper Hill Emily´s Paddock 1997 (from David)
What a difference the Cab Franc makes! Attack, mid-palate and ending. Wow! 97p.
Wild Duck Creek Duck Muck 1997 (from Victor)
The last time I wrote ”Traci Lords in a glass”; it behaves a bit better today. (Or worse, if you are fond of Traci Lords Shirazes.) 91p.
Penfolds Grange 2004 (from Erik)
A very good assemblage, but nowhere near as focused and old viney as the three to come. Single Vineyard Aussies beat the crap out of this type of wine. 93p.
Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz 2005 (joint contribution)
Everything a plenty, but the alcohol? 17,5 ABV? Hmm… Okay, I must take a stand! I love it! 97p.
Henschke Hill of Grace 2004 (joint contribution)
How about 550 USD at cellar door for a red wine with screwcap? Courageous indeed! And the wine is fabulous! 98p+.
Chris Ringland Shiraz 2004 (joint contribution)
Max Schubert, roll over in your grave, and the Henschkes, Bratasiuks and Waughs of down under, do not shoot the messenger now! This wine is greater than anything else ever produced in your country. 100p.
Quintarelli Amarone Riserva 1990 (from Christian)
A true legend, the greatest Amarone ever produced! Although perfectly stored, on its way down. (Remember that Quintarellis really do not last that long. Most bottles from the 70s are now dead and gone.) It is still singing though! 96p(-?).
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Auslese 2003 (my contribution)
Always a pleasure, but nothing really Müllerish about it. In short, a 2003. 91p.
Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L
