I visited two Burgundian stands at the RVF’s Brussels Salon. I am curious to know how others rate these two well known producers.
Louis Latour, négociant, Beaune
When I started out as a wine-lover in the late 50s, Louis Latour was probably the leading Burgundy négociant from a quality viewpoint and one of the few sure sources of real Burgundy in the UK (most of the rest was strengthened by generous additions of Mediterranean wine). My first glimpse of the greatness of Burgundy was a glass of Chambertin Cuvée Héritiers Latour 1947 offered by a friendly wine merchant, who subsequently gave me an introduction to Louis Latour on a visit to France. There I had the privilege of tasting a barrel sample of Château Corton-Grancey 1959 hosted by a dignified and courteous gentleman who was then the firm’s head.
Over the years, I have noticed that Louis Latour’s reputation has been overtaken by those of Jadot, Drouhin and recently Bouchard P&F and Chanson as well as by numerous domaines which bottle their own wines. I don’t think that the reputation of Latour’s reds has been helped by use of flash pasteurisation, which they allege that many other houses practice without admitting it. My memory of that 1947 Chambertin may be magnified by time but I don’t think that it had suffered much from the practice and nor had the one or two tastes of their Romanée Saint-Vivant Les 4 Journaux, which I have been lucky enough to have had in the more recent years.
So, when I saw the Louis Latour stand, I naturally decided to give their range a whirl, encouraged by having read some reports of a recent improvement. I have to say that overall I was disappointed. The wines were well made and quite suave, apart from the 08 reds, but not very inspiring and definitely less interesting than those of Louis Jadot and Bouchard P&F at a tasting last year. However, the whites may have seemed to acquire an extra blandness from my tasting them straight after Jacky Blot’s brilliant Vouvray and Montlouis.
Chardonnay Vin de Pays de l’Ardèche 2009 (€10,50) showed a creamy nose and a rather bland palate; 14/20.
Saint-Véran Les 2 Moulins 2008 (€12,50) was better showing pineapple touches in its fruit and a nice mineral zing but also a touch of coarseness; 15/20.
Montagny 1er cru La Grande Roche 2010 (€16) was rounder and softer in texture than the previous but also with some attractive minerality; 15.5/20.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Les Truffières 2009 (€69) was much fuller, richer and more complex but too dominated at present by, admittedly fine, cedary wood together with caramel hints on the finish; it may come into imposing balance with ageing if the pox can be held off; 15/20 now with ??? potential.
Bourgogne (R) Cuvée Latour 2009 (€11) was quite light in colour and body and showed some pleasant fruit and a certain inconsequential elegance; 14.5/20.
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er cru Île de Vergelesses 2008 (€23). I enjoyed the finely acidic character of the 2008 Burgs which I tasted last Autumn and this Spring but this and the next were infused by a slightly chemical or quinine-like bitter streak which prevented me from enjoying their deeper fruit, minerality, body and structure. I mentioned this to the presenter who looked nonplussed and muttered something about needing more age; 13/20.
Beaune 2008 (€23,50) was similar to the above with an added touch of wet dog on the nose; 13/20.
Aloxe-Corton 1er cru Les Chaillots 2007 (€40) was much more what I look for in Burgundy. Although lighter in colour and body than the two 2008s, it showed greater fruit ripeness with nice cherry touches, some minerals and a certain velvety richness of texture together with lively acids which gave an overall impression of bright charm; no need to wait for this one; 16/20+++.
La Chablisienne, cooperative, Chablis
This firm is a strong candidate for being the best regarded cooperative wine producer in France. It was founded in 1923, now counts some 300 members, is responsible for about 25% of the 4,700 hectares planted in Chablis and produces on average 250,000 hectolitres per year.
Chablis is about the only Chardonnay derived wine type which challenges my fidelity to German and Alsatian Riesling and Loire Chenin as my favourite white wines. I enjoyed the range here although not finding it overall quite so compelling as that of, say, William Fèvre, which I have tasted several times in the last few years. Also its Belgian prices are high compared with what I can find for comparable quality at cellar doors in Chablis and in its neighbouring villages.
Chablis Vénérables Vieilles Vignes 2007 (€16) was crisp, juicy and mineral with nice backbone; 15.5/20.
Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2008 (€19) was richer and more complex yet still crisp with residual wood hints still to be integrated; 15.5/20 with + potential.
Chablis 1er cru L’Homme Mort 2009 (€23) was at present more discreet aromatically but combined greater tenderness and softer texture with fine minerality and lively acidity; 16/20 with + potential.
Chablis 1er cru La Montée de Tonnerre 2009 was much riper, with almost a cabbage hint in the fruit, and rounder than the previous but shorter on minerality and lively acidity and less to my taste; an off bottle? 14/20.
Chablis grand cru Les Grenouilles 2007 (€53) was back to the crisp, mineral and juicily acidic style but with finer texture and greater depth and complexity to its white and citrus fruit infused with stony minerals; justifying its extra status if not its price; 16.5/20+++.