Kaseler Kehrnagel Riesling Spätlese – Patheiger – 21 – 2001 – Weingut Karlsmühle, Ruwer – Alc.8.5%.
This was the best wine which I have yet had from this estate, which usefully has a café/restaurant, shop and children’s playground just opposite the junction between the road descending from Maximin Grünhaus and the main valley road. It was a brightly focussed and perfectly integrated stream of complex elements including white fruit, white flowers, gentle spice, minerals including a little Riesling typical petrol, gentle sweetness and crisp mouth-watering acidity. There was also firmer backbone than often in the region supporting the long finish. Though Spätlese, the lovely acidity made it a perfect pairing for a sea bass and salmon dish; 17/20++.
(BTW, does anyone know what “Patheiger” signifies? It is the most prominent word on the front label but is missing on the back label.)
Château La Cabanne Pomerol 1998 – Alc.13.5%, of which the varietal composition is at present 92 % Merlot and 8 % Cabernet Franc. This was a nice but not outstanding Pomerol with medium/full body showing ripe red and dark fruit close to jamminess, dark chocolate undertones and firm tannic structure; 15.5/20+++.
Coteaux du Languedoc 1995 – Prieuré de Saint-Jean de Bébian – Alc.13.9%, made from Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache. When I posted a laudatory TN here and on another board about this estate’s 1989, it gave rise to a lot of comment on the other board to the effect that more recent vintages (1995 was specifically mentioned) were very uninspiring. There was a change of ownership in the early 90s which was thought to have been one cause of a decline. Well, to be contrary, I have to say that I liked this wine a lot. It was, not, I think, quite up to the 1989 judging by my TN and memory but it was an excellent pairing for hen pheasant; harmonious and classy in a rather understated Southern way showing medium/full body, good depth, dark fruit with some forest floor undertones and dabs of spice, a good matt texture, firm resolved tannic structure and good length. There were no signs of incipient decay; 16.5/20++.
Douro Tinta Barroca 2001 – Quinta do Vale da Raposa, Domingos Alves de Sousa – Alc.14% was disappointingly consistent with a previous bottle; medium bodied showing refined ripe red fruit infused with some herbal notes and a polished sweetish patina no doubt from having been raised in new wood. Very pleasant, but the only glimpses of personality were the herbal notes while the ripe fruit and polished patina could have come from a deft wine-maker anywhere; 15/20+.