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Recent tastes

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Florida Jim

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Recent tastes

by Florida Jim » Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:09 am

White:
2010 Carballo, Bujariego La Palma:
12% alcohol from the Canary Islands; the smell of fresh caught fish – musky salinity, something alive and ocean air, with bright white fruit; clean, crisp and nervy, flavors are light but precise and follow the nose, integrated but there is a tension here that lends complexity. With chicken Caesar salad, divine. About $20.
Next time, with seafood.

2009 Maule, Pico:
Skin-fermented garganega; deep golden; nose of resin, honey, herb and macerated white fruits; rich and smooth in the mouth with a texture that clings but does not cloy, flavors echo the nose, good intensity and length. The more skin-fermented whites I taste, the more I like them. BTW, no oxidation noticeable.

Pink:
2010 Ameztoi, Rubentis:
10.5% alcohol; a touch of spritz, some strawberry Jello® scents and flavors, good acidity, not sweet but not bone dry and crisp intensity. Better cold than cool. I prefer rosé from Provence and Bandol. $19.

Red:
2005 Chateau Pradeaux, Bandol:
Decanted for several hours; flowers, dark fruit and animal fur, more open than expected and very nicely balanced.
Terrific with pot roast.

2005 Bernard Gripa, St. Joseph:
Stuffed but hard and impenetrable. Needs time.

2009 Ceritas, Pinot Noir Escarpa Vnyd.:
13.1% alcohol; I had tried this several months ago and found it closed and structured, this time it was open and quite generous with mostly dark fruit, some spice and a broad profile. I think this needs a little bottle time. About $55.

2009 Bjørnstad, Pinot Noir Hellenthal Vnyd.:
14.3% alcohol; lighter in delivery than the above wine and nicely nuanced; some spice, red fruit and a fruit sweetness; not a dense wine but still concentrated – a style I like a good bit. About $50.

1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée SC:
13% alcohol; animale, sauvage and all those other exotic descriptors that indicate a rustic, outside the box, group of aromas and flavors . . . and also a little musty. I don’t think it was even mildly corked but I have been wrong before. With polenta with Rancho Gordo Beans®, really, really good.

2009 Jemrose, Syrah Cardiac Hill:
I did not record the abv; black olives, meat, lavender, black fruit and spice; much the same in the mouth where there is both a smooth delivery and good grip (but not drying); overall, a big wine but one that is very expressive and, IMO, a top shelf syrah, regardless of origin. $38.

And consecutively, blind, with dinner:

1996 DRC, Romanée Saint Vivant:
Recognizable as Vosne for its earthy/olive/spice notes; uncoiled slowly such that the last glass was the best; textbook Vosne but not the spice I expect from this vineyard; precise, satin textured, complex and deep.

1996 DRC, La Tâche:
Recognizable as related to the foregoing; each sip poured, it was more intense and spice driven but calms in the glass with air; more focused, built of sterner stuff though I get the impression it is still finding itself; more silk than satin and not the length of the RSV.

Both exceptional wines but the nod to the RSV tonight.
Thanks Mark.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Salil

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Re: Recent tastes

by Salil » Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:09 am

Thanks for the notes Jim, a good read as always.

The two DRCs sound fantastic. Glad to see such a positive note on the 2009 Jemrose Syrah. I had a chance to try it from barrel with Jim last year and I was very excited; I'm really looking forward to its release.
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Matthew Latuchie

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Re: Recent tastes

by Matthew Latuchie » Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:47 pm

I opened a 2009 Jemrose Cardiac Hill tonight and thought it was quite nice. I think Jim characterized it well...as a nice mix of Northern Rhone olive and meat and new world floral and dark fruit. Firmly acidic finish is nice and cuts the dark fruit appropriately. I see a lot of similarities between this and Pierre Gonon's St. Joseph.
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Jenise

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Re: Recent tastes

by Jenise » Sat Feb 04, 2012 3:14 pm

Re the Maule. Was oxidation expected? It's only an 09.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Florida Jim

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Re: Recent tastes

by Florida Jim » Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:12 pm

Jenise wrote:Re the Maule. Was oxidation expected? It's only an 09.

Often, skin-fermented wines will have some oxidative character, regardless of age.
This one did not.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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