Vouvray Clos du Bourg sec 2007 – Huet – Alc.13%. I know few estates which hit the bull’s-eye as regularly as Huet. There were lovely lively aromas of white fruit quince and minerals, a fuller palate than often with dry Vouvray showing quite dense and complex mineral infused fruit and noticeable RS but so crisp and bracing was the juicy acidity that there was no overall impression of sweetness. I would not call it bone dry but sec tendre would not be correct either. Both vibrant and elegant; 17/20.
Saint-Joseph Clos de Cuminaille 1999 – Pierre Gaillard – Alc. 12.5%. In July last year I wrote that it was a lovely St. Joseph showing good structure, the usual Northern Rhône sour cherry but rounder and deeper with fuller body and a less metallic streak than in a lot of vintages; 16.5/20+++. I liked this bottle less. It seemed to be drying out; leaner, more acidity and more metallic than the previous bottle but still the same recognisable person and still quite enjoyable 15.5/20++.
Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages Haut Coustias 2000 - Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin (F&F.Alary) - Alc. 13.5% - (EUR 17 for 2008 vintage) - a blend of 60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 20% Syrah 65 year old vines. This was in line with notes on previous bottle but less to my taste than my fond memory (supported by TN) of the 1998, which at its prime showed a distinguished elegance akin to that of a fine traditional Rioja minus the vanilla. It was fuller, more structured, darker and fruitier in a primary way than the 1998 and a touch jammy showing less of the complexity of fine fruit nuances as well as less of the tar and herbal notes; it was as if Grenache were more prominent in the 2000 blend. There was also a slight impression of drying tannins on finish, which I might have attributed to ageing had I not noticed the same on a bottle of 2004 Oratoire Prestige; 15.5/20++.
Côtes du Roussillon Villages Segna de Cor 2009 – Domaine le Roc des Anges, Marjorie Gallet – Alc.14% - (€12), made from Grenache (50%), Carignan and Syrah. In April last year it was a delightful wine with its generous medium/full body and dark fruit impregnated with spices, Mediterranean herbs (some anise) together with hints of marmalade and rubber; 16.5/20 QPR!. 18 months later it seemed less exuberant and lively but most of the detailed descriptors still apply; 15.5/20+++ QPR
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2010 – Farnese – Alc. 12.5% - (€4). A second bottle confirmed my impression of the first. Quite full bodied, robustly fruity, pleasingly rustic with lively acidity good for accompanying pasta dishes in tomato sauce; 15/20 QPR!