With three other couples, we've started doing periodic wine dinners involving verticals. Last night, friends Hal and Linda put on a memorable four course dinner and served nine vintages of Quilceda Creek, 1989 thru 1997. All the wines have been impeccably stored since purchase in Hal's cellar; he started buying QC in 1988 when it could be had for a mere $16. Makes you groan, doesn't it? All the wines were poured through a coffee filter to remove sediment about an hour and half before serving.
First Flite
1989 Quilceda Creek: Garnet red. Hugely aromatic cedar nose with green pepper, black cherry, plums and a little bit of sawdust. On the palate, a fruit flavor not unlike fresh bing cherries soaked in a little brandy, smooth tannins. Great body and elegance that did not waver during the 45 minutes this flight lasted. Very old world, and my favorite of the flite/second favorite of the night. WOTN for several.
1990 Quilceda Creek: Slightly brighter in color than the 89 with a similar but less intense nose. Dryer on the palate with licorice, spice, lots of sawdust and a green note that comes across more like pineneedle than green pepper.
1991 Quilceda Creek: Brightest color of the three. Youthful berry notes on the nose, sturdy tannins, tangy, red licorice, sassafras. Initially seemed the least complex of the wines, and the fruit started dropping out toward the end.
Second Flite
1992 Quilceda Creek: Bright dark red color. Incredibly complex and beguiling nose of blue fruits, spice and violets that ratchets up a level from the 90 and 91. On the palate, delightful if less powerful than expected from the nose, and it backpeddled very slightly with time in the glass. Probably past peak, but oh what joy while it lasts.
1993 Quilceda Creek: Mauve-y dark red. Dusty nose with blackberry, plums, tobacco and a little bit of leather. Initially my least favorite of the three, but as it relaxed in the glass it picked up a Palmer-esque perfume and became the epitome of grace and complexity with a long, sweet finish. WOTN for me and two others.
1994 Quilceda Creek: Dark blackish red. Blackberry and black plum with anise, coffee and some foresty flavors, the densest and dryest wine so far and the most in need of more time. Hard to believe I'm saying that about a 17 year old Washington cabernet. Will show a lot more complexity down the road.
Third Flite
1995 Quilceda Creek: Bright dark red. Another aromatic stunner. Complex, juicy, plummy with blue fruit that reminds a bit of the 92 with spicy oak flavors and a softer, more feminine mouthfeel. My favorite of the flite. WOTN for Hal.
1996 Quilceda Creek: Where it's flitemates were both opaque as had been all the other wines so far, this wine was oddly transparent
like a fined and filtered wine. Some brown in the color, too. On the palate, the lightest fruit and boldest tannins. Quite drinkable, but not at all in the same league as the other wines tonight and judging by better reports on Cellar Tracker, it was just one of those odd bottles that's just not all there though absent any obvious, nameable flaw.
1997 Quilceda Creek: Darkest and heftiest of the flite. And on the nose: Vitamin B! After that blew off, it settled into a very attractive profile very similar to the 94 with black fruit, cassis and mint. Great body; drinks great now but will reward further cellaring. WOTN for two.