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WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

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Dale Williams

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WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Dale Williams » Mon Oct 31, 2011 3:51 pm

Betsy's dad was visiting from CA this week, Thursday Betsy made us spaghetti and meatballs, broccoli, and salad. Apertif wine was the newly delivered 2010 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett. An annual favorite, this shows well, citrus, green apple and melon,but more mineral than fruit driven. Striking but not overwhelming acidity, nice length, great potential but tasty now. B+/A-

Dinner wine wasn't Italian but the 2010 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert) Fleurie (went fine with pasta and meatballs). Black raspberry and cherry, earth, smoke, a bit leaner than 2009 but equally delicious. B+/A-

Friday was flounder, with the 2005 Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac Leognan). This seemed a bit tired and oxidative at first, I was quite worried, but it seemed to shake it off. Rich almost tropical fruit, a waxy/oily edge, a hint of honey and vanilla. Good. B

Who expected a snowstorm before Halloween? Frantic day as trees and power lines came down, I was constantly rearranging plans for my groups as folks found out that roads were impassable. By 7 PM things had calmed a bit, we headed to local historical society where my friends Fred and Alex were having their dinner club.

We sloshed to Mead House, where we were greeted with cheese and herb stuffed mushrooms, along with crostini with grilled pear, Brie, honey, and herbes de Provence. Wine was the 2010 Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling (Finger Lakes), Fairly dry, crisp, apple with a slatey note. I enjoyed this. B

Fred also brought me a glass of a blind wine, clearly not Riesling, there's a rich honied feel that made me think Pinot Gris, but good acidity that spoke of Loire switched my guess to Romaratin, I missed the pretty obvious Chenin Blanc character. . 2009 Domaine de la Noblaie Chinon blanc. B/B+

First sitdown course was roasted pumpkin (actually kabocha as Irene floods ravages sugar pumpkin crops) soup with cider cream. Accompaniment was the 2008 Ravines Cellars Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Light, fruity, just a hint of herb, don't think I would have called this CF blind, but a nice easygoing wine. B

2005 JM Raffault "Clos des Capucins" Chinon
Bigger brawnier style of CF, some tannins, rich black fruit, a little green pepper, but a tad short. B-

Main was coq au vin with celery root and potato puree, followed by an apple-quince tart

2009 Chateau Tire-pe‘Per diem'  (Bordeaux AC)
Light, fresh cherry fruit, not very claret-like but a nice easygoing red wine. B/B-

1998 Ch. du Tertre
In a good place. Not a jawdropper, but fairly classically styled Margaux, perfumed nose, cassis fruit, a little cigarbox. Mostly resolved tannins, bright acids, good length,. B+

Sunday started fun as I rose at 3:30 to shovel and wovel so we could get her dad to his early AM flight from JFK. A morning of shoveling, and then a quiet afternoon before heading a roundabout route to a dinner. Appetizers of sundried tomato with roasted garlic, parmesan bread twists, and a salad with goat cheese crostini; main course of lamb tagine with couscous.

NV Gruet rose
Sweet strawberries, a little yeast, not bad but not my fave of Gruet lineup. B-
 
2009 La Cartuja (Priorat)
Others liked a lot, this seemed a touch jammy and short to me. Less brawny than some Priorats, but without much freshness. B-/C+

2009 Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban
Really nice, blackberries and smoked meat, well balanced, very nice wine that I should get more of. A-/B+
 
2009 Bodegas Torremoron (Ribera del Duero)
Fairly straightforward, medium body, decent acids, red fruit and flowers, no obvious oak. B/B-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Richard Fadeley OLD » Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:34 pm

We have had some issues with the '04 Carbonnieux here in Columbia, SC. Mostly over the hill. I wonder if is similar to the premox issues in Burgundy. These white Bdx wines are supposed to go a long time. Maybe it is the riper fruit (due to global warming), and the accompanying lower acidity, that is causing problems? Any reports from other white Bdx?
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Keith M » Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:54 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Dinner wine wasn't Italian but the 2010 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert) Fleurie (went fine with pasta and meatballs). Black raspberry and cherry, earth, smoke, a bit leaner than 2009 but equally delicious. B+/A-

This is interesting indeed, as I tried (just a swirl and spit) of the 2010 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie last week and found it pretty fat and plush. As I'm pretty new to the producer, it definitely sounds like a bottle might be in order for a more proper evaluation. Did love the nose though . . .
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Rahsaan » Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:01 pm

Keith M wrote:
Dale Williams wrote:Dinner wine wasn't Italian but the 2010 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert) Fleurie (went fine with pasta and meatballs). Black raspberry and cherry, earth, smoke, a bit leaner than 2009 but equally delicious. B+/A-

This is interesting indeed, as I tried (just a swirl and spit) of the 2010 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie last week and found it pretty fat and plush. As I'm pretty new to the producer, it definitely sounds like a bottle might be in order for a more proper evaluation. Did love the nose though . . .


What were you drinking/swirling prior to the Roilette? Vinegar? :D
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Keith M » Tue Nov 01, 2011 10:14 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Keith M wrote:
Dale Williams wrote:Dinner wine wasn't Italian but the 2010 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert) Fleurie (went fine with pasta and meatballs). Black raspberry and cherry, earth, smoke, a bit leaner than 2009 but equally delicious. B+/A-

This is interesting indeed, as I tried (just a swirl and spit) of the 2010 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie last week and found it pretty fat and plush. As I'm pretty new to the producer, it definitely sounds like a bottle might be in order for a more proper evaluation. Did love the nose though . . .
What were you drinking/swirling prior to the Roilette? Vinegar?

Oh, who knows with these things . . .

But the priors were some from Descombes (2009) and Terres Dorées (2010).
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Patrick Martin » Tue Nov 01, 2011 11:40 pm

I had a half dozen 2005 Carbonnieux blanc get oxidized by 2009, but these were from 375s, so I hope that had something to do with it. Apparently not. Funny, I recently drank an '03 Carbonnieux blanc that was going strong.
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Tom V » Wed Nov 02, 2011 12:55 am

Patrick Martin wrote:I had a half dozen 2005 Carbonnieux blanc get oxidized by 2009, but these were from 375s, so I hope that had something to do with it. Apparently not. Funny, I recently drank an '03 Carbonnieux blanc that was going strong.


I've popped around 5 or 6 bottles of my case of 2001 Carbonnieux blanc over the past couple of years. They ranged from badly oxidized to somewhat oxidized but drinkable, and they were perfectly stored since I purchased them immediately upon release. I am very encouraged by your experience with the '03 though, which I also have a case of and have been intending to get into for some time now. I'm going to be a very happy guy if the '03s turn out to be "going strong", have to pop one real soon!
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Patrick Martin » Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:53 pm

I opened a 750-ml Carbonnieux blanc 2005 last night ITNOS, and it was exactly as Dale's bottle showed. Came out of the gates seeming slightly oxidized, but then pulled together into a really lovely, pretty classic white Bordeaux. Great balance, sneaky length, a lovely lemon verbena profile, really nice. I'd probably go with a B+\A- rating.

Hard to know how will will hold up in cellar given it's strange improvement with air, but so good now, so why wait?
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Crissie Rose Reiff » Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:29 am

Wow, that is several wines that I haven't tried and they sound like great suggestions. The Riesling sounds enjoyable however is it more of a sweeter taste? I enjoy more of a light, sweet wine however I do tend to sway more towards the dryer wines with heavier meals.
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by David M. Bueker » Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:05 pm

Crissie,

First off, sorry for my less than stellar welcome elsewhere...I'll blame the snowstorm...

As for the Donnhoff Riesling, it tends to be a somewhat sweet wine, but always in balance. 2010 was quite high in acid, so the wines show generally drier.

If you're asking about hte Dr. Frank Riesling then I will have to defer to Dale.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Dale Williams » Fri Nov 04, 2011 2:00 pm

My PremOx rate for white Bdx is at least as bad as white Burg. My range of a bunch of 2001 La Louviere sounds like Tom's Carbonnieux, from great to badly oxidized, and all in between.

The Frank was pretty dry. The Donnhoff had more obvious sugar, but as David said there is tons of acidity. That type of wine for me is very food friendly, especially with foods with a spicy edge
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Joe Moryl » Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:15 pm

Dale Williams wrote:My PremOx rate for white Bdx is at least as bad as white Burg. My range of a bunch of 2001 La Louviere sounds like Tom's Carbonnieux, from great to badly oxidized, and all in between.

The Frank was pretty dry. The Donnhoff had more obvious sugar, but as David said there is tons of acidity. That type of wine for me is very food friendly, especially with foods with a spicy edge


Was the Frank Riesling the one labeled "Dry Riesling" or was it the Semi-dry version (used to be labeled Johannisberg Riesling but they might have been forced to stop - brown bottle instead of green)? If the former, probably around 1%-2% RS, the latter 3%-4% RS.
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Crissie Rose Reiff » Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:57 am

The Donnhoff sounds tempting. I am a Riesling lover so I have to try this one. Any one have additional recommendations on good entrees or appetizers to pair with this?
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Re: WTN: mostly good wines with pre-Halloween snow

by Jenise » Tue Nov 08, 2011 1:58 pm

Crissie Rose Reiff wrote:The Donnhoff sounds tempting. I am a Riesling lover so I have to try this one. Any one have additional recommendations on good entrees or appetizers to pair with this?


Oh you DO, Crissie. It will change your life. (And note: if you love reisling, pay attention to David. He's a true expert on the grape, particularly German imports.)
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