The highlights of two weeks’ drinking are recorded here, so apologies for the length. The two best are at the end.
Château Verdignan cru bourgeois Haut-Médoc 1996 – Alc.12.8%, a Cabernet Sauvignon dominated Bordeaux blend, has usually shown itself to be what I look for in an inexpensive (c€12) bourgeois claret but suffered this time from having been opened the day following a classy and delicious Clerc Milon 89 (TN in the archive). Trying to be objective, I note that, like with a recently opened 98, the aromas showed red/dark fruit (some plum), a nice herbaceous edge with some wet leather and the palate was harmonious with medium body, good fruit, lively acidity, some minerality and just a hint of bitter dryness in the tannins on the finish. Seeming more one dimensional than my memories of previous bottles but probably the Clerc Milon is to blame for that; 15.5/20.
Château Poujeaux cru bourgeois Moulis-en-Médoc 1996 – Jean Theil – Alc.12.5%, Cabernet Sauvignon 50%, Merlot 40%. For years the 96 seemed sulky by comparison with the lovely 97 but the bottle I tried in January was singing beautifully, as was this one, and I have nothing to add or subtract from my TN then. There were generous claret aromas of plum, black currant, earthy minerals with a typically fresh (Napa lovers might say “green”) edge. The palate was full/medium, fresh, mouth-filling with a round fleshy underlay, mature claret’s understated sweetness of fruit offset by lively and tangy but non-astringent acidity and supported by firm but well covered tannic structure towards the decently long finish. This is, for me, a model bourgeois claret and a good example to many 3rd to 5th grands crus; 17/20. It would be interesting to compare 96 side by side with the 97 but, alas, my bottles of the latter are all gone.
Kremstal Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2005 – Nigl - Alc. 13.5% - (EUR 19,54). In May 2007 I wrote –
N: Expansive showing deep attractive aromas with a hint of warm apple pie but also a touch of rusticity. P: Generous, mouth-fillingly broad and long with strong structure, concentrated flesh and attractive aromas as on the nose plus a hint of spiciness, but also a hint of coarseness and earthy rusticity.
This was hugely enjoyable and showed strong character but lacked the class of a lot of Riesling, Loire Chenin and Chablis in the same price range. Maybe I just haven’t so far hit on the right GV and probably ageing would bring greater refinement to this one. But I remain to be convinced that GV is in the top class.
I held this bottle back and there has been a big transformation in 4 years. The aromas have become more demonstrative with exotic fruit and flower notes emerging, the rusticity of the nose and palate has disappeared and the whole gave an impression of opulent refinement combined with an attractive freshness (thanks to the screwcap?). Still not the equal of the best Riesling, Chablis and Loire chenin which have come my way but I begin to see how GV may sometimes be as classy as many, including Jancis R, claim; 16.5/20+.
Monterrei Alanda 2007 Quinta da Muradella (Galicia, NW Spain), from Mencia, Bastardo and Arauxa grapes.
I tried the Alanda 2006 at a tasting a couple of years ago and later at home and wrote the following note. I was attracted at the tasting by what I then described as “its unusual flavours of steely and tangy cherry with a lively medicinal hint”. On retasting at home I don’t think that “medicinal” is an adequate descriptor and now analyse it as a hint of brandy with a bitter liquorice tinge; combined with the steely and tangy cherry, lively acidity and decent structure, this is surprisingly attractive and went almost as well as Chianti was a pasta dish with parmesan gratings and tomato sauce. The importer says that this wine is non-commercial; what a pity; 15.5/20++.
This 2007 seemed even better. The flavours were quite clearly Mencia influenced with a sort of N.Rhône elegance and were better integrated than in the 2006 with the medicinal streak, if any, only an element of complexity. There seemed also to be more fullness than I remembered. Very nice; 16/20+.
Two wines follow which are available at our local supermarket and were recommended in an article in a Belgian magazine by a writer, Éric Boschman, whose style I quite like. So this was an experiment to see how his palate calibrates with mine. If there is a decent match it could be useful as his recommendations are all in the easy availability and affordability range. The result from a small sample of two is not very conclusive; one hit and one miss.
Gigondas 2009 - Château Saint-André – Alc.14% - (€10). Boschman describes this as a “man’s” wine with a rusticity which he loves and he awards it 16/20. There was rusticity, indeed, and also quite strong acidity and a lack of hedonism which IMO is part of the virile appeal of Gigondas. Maybe the pairing, pork, did not help; for me at most 14/20.
Chianti Classico 2008 – Terre di Priori – Alc.13% - (€9). Though seemingly a wine from a co-operative, this was much more to my taste with authentic Chianti savoury fruit and tang with fine supple tannins. I’ll buy more of this for pasta and tomato dishes; 15.5/20 (Boschman 14/20).
And the best came last.
Fontalloro IGT Toscana 1998 – Fèlsina – Alc.13.5%. This was quite sensitive to its pairing, a boeuf Stroganoff, some of whose spices caused the tannins to seem unpleasantly angular. Before and after this clash, the wine revealed itself as a Tuscan aristocrat with deeply savoury fruit showing a complexity which the previous Chianti did not possess, including touches of minerals, tar, forest floor and old book, together with medium/full body and classical shape culminating with still firm but non astringent tannins; 17/20.
Volnay 1er cru Les Mitans 1991 – Hubert de Montille – Alc.12%. Hitherto I have been puzzled by the high regard for Hubert de Montille with some discriminating Burgundy lovers because I have found his wines somewhat stiff. Judging by this bottle 20 years patience is necessary. At first some lovely Pinot aromas were a rather shy making some still firm tannins seem a little harsh but with air the aromas and fruit developed and the tannins receded into good balance providing just the right support for the finish. Not more than medium/light bodied, there was a certain pure richness and velvety feel to the mid-palate and shape was a gentle crescendo to the finish followed by a decently long diminuendo. Germaine, who has inherited from her father a robust image of “Burgundy”, was disconcerted by the relative lightness but I loved its harmony and elegance which were perfect with stuffed quail; 17/20.