La Buena Vida is probably the most ambitious Belgian importer of Spanish wines. They have an impressive portfolio. It was their Brussels representative who introduced me to Bierzo Mencia and Valdeorras Godello, which show an elegance and finesse unusual in Spain and are now firm favourites of mine. This time they have added a grower from the Canaries to their range. The special attraction of this year’s tasting was the presence of the range from Vega Sicilia (TN to come in a separate post) and this was an additional incentive to cut back on the number of blockbusters tasted because of their palate numbing effect. Nevertheless, after tables of Montsant, Priorat and, to a less extent, the Canaries, I felt it necessary to take a glass of crisp, salty and nutty Fino before attacking the Vega Sicilia range; this worked and I was able to appreciate these fine wines.
José Parente, DO Rueda
Verdejo 2010 (€11) showed juicy aromas with a hint of lime and a crisp palate with gooseberry notes, plenty of tangy grip and tenderness on the finish; 15.5/20 (I liked less a bottle opened at home; too perfumed with boiled sweet notes; maybe needing more air; just 15/20.)
Sauvignon blanc 2009 (€11) was more discreet on the nose but also deeper and crisp and refreshing on the palate with less tang and grip than the previous; 15/20+.
F.E.B. 2009, 100% Verdejo and aged 5 months in barrels, showed softer aromas reminiscent of pineapple and richer, deeper and more caressing fruit; wood ageing tactfully done; 15.5/20+++.
Gramona, DO Penedès
I already greatly admired this estate’s wines at a tasting 2 years ago and this year too, particularly the bubblies, which IMO are amongst the finest outside Champagne.
Cava Imperial Gran Reserva Brut 2006 (€20), made from 50% Xarel.lo, 40% Macabeu, 10% Chardonnay and aged for 36 months on lattes, was crisp, elegant and biscuit with a fine bubble; 15.5/20.
Cava III Lustros Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2001 (€29), made from 70% Xarel.lo, 30% Macabeu and aged for 60 months on lattes, was altogether fuller, deeper and more complex whilst retaining crispness; 16.5/20+++.
La Col.lecció d’Art 1999 (€283/magnum!!!), made from old vine Chardonnay and aged for 10 years on lees, was a little shy on the nose but revealed even greater depth and intensity together with crispness; 17/20 but worth the price???
The presenter was a little dubious with my continuing onto still whites after these three distinguished bubblies but in the event the grapey and spicy fruit of Gessami 2010 (€11), from 30% Moscatel D’Alejandria, 30% Mostatel de Frontignan and 40% Sauvignon blanc made a perfect bridge because of its great contrast; 15.5/20. Xarel.lo Font Jui 2007, aged in wood for 4 months, was a more orthodox wine with white flower aromas and a quite rich palate well balance with acidity which the oak discreetly handled; 16/20.
Rafael Palacios, DO Valdeorras.
Palacios’ rigour and dedication shine through when talking with him. He is one of the quality pioneers in the area and believes in planting at high altitude where the white Godello grape develops enough acidity to give crispness and minerals flavours are mingled into the quite rich and round fruit.
Bolo 2010, from 100% Godello (€9), shows quite creamy white fruit but the palate adds a nicely crisp tang and some backbone; 15.5/20.
Louro 2010 (€15), from Godello 92%, Treixadura 8% and used barrel aged for 6 months, is richer and rounder with a more caressing texture than the previous and shows minerality and backbone; 16/20++.
As Sortes 2010 (€34), from 100% Godello, 500 litre barrel fermented and 6 month barrel aged, adds extra layers of complexity, more velvety mouth-feel together with juicier acidity; 17/20.
Sundry reds without grower representation
Bierzo Castro de Vatruille Mencia joven 2008 – Castro Ventosa (€8) was full of bright fruit, especially raspberry and cherry, as well as a leathery tang and a good grip but I found a certain rusticity at the tasting which did not, however, bother me in a delicious bottle opened at home; 16/20.
Toro Flor de Vetus 2009 – Finca Vallacreces (€11) showed attractive fruit marred for me at present by excessive wood aromas and marked tannins (wood boosted) on the finish; 14/20.
Ribera del Duero Pruno 2009 – Finca Vallacreces (€12), with 10% CabSauv, was less wood dominated than the previous and showed fuller and quite sweet fruit which supported better the tannins and gave some promise of gracious ageing; 15/20++ now.
Celler Joan d’Anguera, DO Montsant
I liked the entry level wine best here. The more ambitious the wines got the more they tired my palate. Maybe, with an appropriate meal, I would like them better.
Joan d’Anguera Vino Joven 2009 (€8), from Garnatxa, Syrah and CabSauv showed exuberant fruit offset by a nice tang and decent grip; 15.5/20+.
Planella 2009 (€12), from Carinyena, Syrah, CabSauv and Garnatxa and barrel aged for 11 months, showed greater depth, complexity and tannic structure as well as a metallic streak in the fruit and wood notes; 15.5/20.
Finca l’Argatà 2009 (€16), from Garnatxa, Syrah and CabSauv and 12 months barrel aged, was brighter in its raspberry tinged fruit than the previous but also jammier with ointment like touches; 15/20++.
El Bugader 2007 (€38), from 100% Syrah and 14 months barrel aged, was a powerful and quite deep wine with raspberry jam notes in its otherwise dark fruit, a smooth texture in mid palate and rather tiring tannins on the finish; 15/20+
Viñátigo and Tanajara, Canary Islands
These estates must be congratulated for using only local grape varieties. These gave original flavours which pleased me more on the whites than on the reds, which to boot were rather pretentiously priced. The wine names shown below are those of the grape varieties.
The Viñátigo whites from the DO Ycoden-Daute-Isora were attractive. Gual 2008 (€15) was gentle fruity and quite strongly aromatic with moderate acidity. Marmajuelo 2010 (€17) showed hints of Riesling, quite rich matter with tropical fruit notes and lively acidity. Vijariejo blanco 2007 (€15) was even more exotic in its fruit, with some pineapple notes, and showed barrique hints. The same estate’s reds from the same appellation were Tintilla 2008 (€20), showing plum and chocolate notes in quite soft fruit contrasting with a hard slightly woody finish, and Baboso 2008 (€28), showing quite rich fruit though mid palate and then a hard tannic finish.
The Tanajara reds from DO El Hierro were Vijariego tinto 2008 (€23), quite light in colour and body showing attractively fragrant soft sweet fruit, and Baboso 2008 (€45!!), powerful with raspberry notes and a bitter sweet finish.
Mas d’En Gil, DO Priorat
Here I preferred the reds. Coma Alta 2008 (€28), from 70% Viognier, 30% Garnatxa blanca, showed fresh rich fruit and aromas spoilt by a malty touch on the palate. Coma Blanca 2009 (€48), from 50/50 Garnaxta blanca and Macabeu, showed aromas of sweet meat and a soft and ingratiating palate; but worth the price??
Coma Vella 2007 (€28), from 35% Garnatxa, 30% CabSauv, 25% Carinyena, 10% Syrah aaaand 12 months wood aged, showed attractive deep fruit and was already drinking well; 15.5/20.
Clos Fontà 2007 (€50), from 55% Garnatxa, 20% Carinyena, 25% CabSauv a,d 14 months wood aged, was powerful and even deeper and much more complex with a strangely oxidative hint and a harsh edge to its aromas; probably needs more time; 16/20++ potentially but worth the price??
Vega Sicilia
The range will be the subject of a separate TN.
Guitiérrez Colosía, DO Jerez
This sherry house was unknown to me but I will seek out its wines in future. The wines were presented by a good looking and very well informed mother and daughter pair. These sherries seemed more than usually tinged with salt and iodine possibly due to the proximity of the sea. It is interesting to note how reasonably they are priced, even the Palo Cortado, compared with the pretentious prices for much less quality IMHO in other appellations.
Fino (€8), 4 year Solera, was a lovely crisp drink with not and salt touches; 16.5/20+.
Amontillado (€13), 8 year Solera, was naturally fuller and richer with a salty finish which I previously met on this type; 16.5/20.
Oloroso (€13), 15 year Solera, was very dry, powerful and complex and, I guess, potentially a good pairing for some rich savoury dishes; 16.5/20++.
Palo Cortado Reserva Familiar (€69 for 50cl), 80 year Solera, was more subtle and slightly less powerful than the previous but deep and full of fascinating complexity including a touch of rubber, which I like but which may disconcert some, and again that salty finish; would repay getting to know better; 17/20++.
Moscatel Soleado (€16), 15 year Solera, showed fine spicy aromatics and considerable but non-cloying sweetness; 16/20.
I skipped two PXs as I did not want to leave the tasting on a probably syrupy note.